Modern Polish€€€praga-polnoc
Zoni sits inside the old Koneser vodka factory in Warsaw's Praga district. Five surviving giant copper stills frame the dining room and the kitchen cooks contemporary Polish.
Signature: Beef zrazy, Ruthenian pierogi
Order: Whatever pierogi are on the seasonal menu and a flight of Koneser-distilled vodka.
Tip: The Praga Koneser complex also holds the Polish Vodka Museum; pair a tour with dinner.
Modern Polish€€€praga-polnoc
Mateusz Gessler's Warszawa Wschodnia in Warsaw runs 24 hours a day at the Soho Factory complex in Praga. French technique on Polish ingredients, with the bar wrapped around an open kitchen.
Signature: Beef tartare, Polish bistro classics
Order: Whatever cut the bar grill is searing tonight and the in-house bakery's sourdough.
Tip: Open round the clock, the rare late-late-night option for a proper dinner outside Old Town.
Traditional Polish€€€stare-miasto
Magda Gessler's Restauracja Polka in Warsaw sits in a Renaissance tenement steps from the Royal Castle. Seven flower-painted rooms, classical china, and the Polish home-cooking canon.
Signature: Bigos, Pierogi, Potato pancakes
Order: The bigos and the hand-rolled pierogi, with a shot of Polmos vodka.
Tip: Book a window seat on the Old Town side. It is touristy but earns the reputation.
Polish steakhouse€€€mokotow
Stary Dom in Warsaw is the steak and Polish-classics anchor of leafy Mokotow, an old-house dining room with linen tablecloths and a deep cellar list under the wood beams.
Signature: Beef tartare, Polish steaks
Order: The hand-cut tartare to start, then whatever steak the butcher's window has aged longest.
Tip: Sunday lunch is the easy booking window. The basement dining room is the better seat.
Modern Polish€€€srodmiescie
Dwie Trzecie in Warsaw runs a tight Polish carte across two rooms, restaurant and tapas bar. The kitchen leans on game and spring vegetables and the wine list reads Belgian-brewed-by-default.
Signature: Rabbit with peas, Asparagus and potato fondant
Order: The chef's set lunch with the kitchen's pickled-vegetable accent.
Tip: The sister site Jedna Trzecie next door is a Belgian beer cellar; do dinner here and one trappist after.
Mediterranean European€€srodmiescie
Aioli on Swietokrzyska is the breakfast-through-evening Mediterranean canteen that Warsaw uses for the in-between meals: late breakfast, working lunch, early drinks before dinner elsewhere.
Signature: Breakfast plate, Italian pasta
Order: The shakshuka at breakfast or the daily pasta at lunch.
Tip: The all-day kitchen and the live DJ slot after 21:00 make it the rare both-and room.