Polish modern$$$mokotow
Stary Dom in Warsaw is the steak and Polish-classics anchor of leafy Mokotow, an old-house dining room with linen tablecloths and a deep cellar list.
Signature: Beef tartare, Polish steaks
Order: The hand-cut tartare to start, then whatever steak the butcher's window has aged longest.
Tip: Sunday lunch is the easy booking window. The basement dining room is the better seat.
Greek$$srodmiescie
Meze by Teo Vafidis and Sons on Wilcza in Warsaw runs a Greek and Mediterranean carte built around shared meze plates, souvlaki and grilled octopus.
Signature: Souvlaki, Grilled octopus, Moussaka
Order: The mezedakia sharing plates with a glass of assyrtiko.
Tip: The lunch carte is the value pick; the kitchen leans heavier on grill and seafood at dinner.
Mediterranean$$srodmiescie
Aioli on Swietokrzyska is the breakfast-through-evening Mediterranean canteen that Warsaw uses for the in-between meals: late breakfast, working lunch.
Signature: Breakfast plate, Italian pasta
Order: The shakshuka at breakfast or the daily pasta at lunch.
Tip: The all-day kitchen and the live DJ slot after 21:00 make it the rare both-and room.
Modern Polish$$$powisle
Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedz in Warsaw, the Green Bear, hides in Beyer Park between Powisle and the centre. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans modern polish.
Signature: Beef cheek, Foraged-vegetable plates
Order: Whatever foraged-mushroom dish is on, with a glass of Hungarian Furmint.
Tip: Entry by car from Kruczkowskiego on the Powisle side. Walk-up from Smolna through the park.
Middle Eastern Vegan$$srodmiescie
Tel Aviv Urban Food on Poznanska in Warsaw opened in 2010 as the city's first strictly plant-based room. Kitchen leans middle eastern vegan.
Signature: Hummus, Falafel pita, Shakshuka
Order: The hummus mushabbaha with extra warm pita and a side of pickled vegetables.
Tip: Walk-in friendly at lunch. Dinner Friday-Saturday is the harder slot.
Wine bar$$$wola
Mielzynski on Burakowska in Warsaw sits inside the old Lace Factory at the corner of Srodmiescie, Zoliborz and Wola. Kitchen leans wine bar restaurant.
Signature: Polish charcuterie, Cheese board
Order: The charcuterie and cheese board, chosen by whoever is pouring tonight.
Tip: The shelves are the wine list. Pick a bottle off them and pay corkage that is lower than a list mark-up.