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Polish modernMokotow
Stary Dom in Warsaw is the steak and Polish-classics anchor of leafy Mokotow, an old-house dining room with linen tablecloths and a deep cellar list.
OrderThe hand-cut tartare to start, then whatever steak the butcher's window has aged longest.
TipSunday lunch is the easy booking window. The basement dining room is the better seat.
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GreekSrodmiescie
Meze by Teo Vafidis and Sons on Wilcza in Warsaw runs a Greek and Mediterranean carte built around shared meze plates, souvlaki and grilled octopus.
OrderThe mezedakia sharing plates with a glass of assyrtiko.
TipThe lunch carte is the value pick; the kitchen leans heavier on grill and seafood at dinner.
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MediterraneanSrodmiescie
Aioli on Swietokrzyska is the breakfast-through-evening Mediterranean canteen that Warsaw uses for the in-between meals: late breakfast, working lunch.
OrderThe shakshuka at breakfast or the daily pasta at lunch.
TipThe all-day kitchen and the live DJ slot after 21:00 make it the rare both-and room.
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Modern PolishPowisle
Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedz in Warsaw, the Green Bear, hides in Beyer Park between Powisle and the centre. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans modern polish.
OrderWhatever foraged-mushroom dish is on, with a glass of Hungarian Furmint.
TipEntry by car from Kruczkowskiego on the Powisle side. Walk-up from Smolna through the park.
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Middle Eastern VeganSrodmiescie
Tel Aviv Urban Food on Poznanska in Warsaw opened in 2010 as the city's first strictly plant-based room. Kitchen leans middle eastern vegan.
OrderThe hummus mushabbaha with extra warm pita and a side of pickled vegetables.
TipWalk-in friendly at lunch. Dinner Friday-Saturday is the harder slot.
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Wine barWola
Mielzynski on Burakowska in Warsaw sits inside the old Lace Factory at the corner of Srodmiescie, Zoliborz and Wola. Kitchen leans wine bar restaurant.
OrderThe charcuterie and cheese board, chosen by whoever is pouring tonight.
TipThe shelves are the wine list. Pick a bottle off them and pay corkage that is lower than a list mark-up.