Modern Polish€€€powisle
Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedz in Warsaw, the Green Bear, hides in Beyer Park between Powisle and the centre. Small dining room, chalkboard menu, foraged-vegetable kitchen.
Signature: Beef cheek, Foraged-vegetable plates
Order: Whatever foraged-mushroom dish is on, with a glass of Hungarian Furmint.
Tip: Entry by car from Kruczkowskiego on the Powisle side. Walk-up from Smolna through the park.
Middle Eastern vegan€€srodmiescie
Tel Aviv Urban Food on Poznanska in Warsaw opened in 2010 as the city's first strictly plant-based room. Hummus, falafel, pita and shakshuka now run across three locations.
Signature: Hummus, Falafel pita, Shakshuka
Order: The hummus mushabbaha with extra warm pita and a side of pickled vegetables.
Tip: Walk-in friendly at lunch. Dinner Friday-Saturday is the harder slot.
Wine bar restaurant€€€wola
Mielzynski on Burakowska in Warsaw sits inside the old Lace Factory at the corner of Srodmiescie, Zoliborz and Wola. A wine merchant first, a kitchen second, both done seriously.
Signature: Polish charcuterie, Cheese board
Order: The charcuterie and cheese board, chosen by whoever is pouring tonight.
Tip: The shelves are the wine list. Pick a bottle off them and pay corkage that is lower than a list mark-up.
Modern Polish€€€powisle
Robert Trzopek's Bez Gwiazdek in Warsaw rebuilds regional Polish cooking the way you wish your grandmother had cooked it. The name (no stars) is a joke; the room earns them.
Signature: Regional Polish tasting, Pierogi reinterpretation
Order: Whatever regional set the kitchen is running this month. The chef plates one menu, no choice.
Tip: Open Wed-Fri evenings and Saturday from 16:00. Book three to four weeks ahead, it is a small room.
Modern European€€€€srodmiescie
Jacek Grochowina's Nolita has been in the Warsaw Michelin Guide since 2014. A small monochrome room with a glass-fronted kitchen and Polish-Mediterranean-Asian crossovers.
Signature: Five course tasting, Seven course tasting
Order: The seven-course tasting with wine pairing.
Tip: About 40 covers. Book two weeks ahead for weekend dinner.
Modern Polish€€€€srodmiescie
Marcin Przybysz's Epoka in Warsaw cooks elevated Polish food from a different historical century each course. The room sits inside the Raffles Europejski hotel.
Signature: Historical Polish tasting, Pierogi 1850
Order: The full multi-course history-of-Poland tasting menu, no a la carte.
Tip: Bookings open four weeks ahead. The wine pairing leans heavily on Polish and Hungarian producers.