Gay-Odin is a bakery in Toledo, Naples.
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata.
Editorially verified May 19, 2026 by Lewis Vaughan, TableJourney editor. Source.
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Address: Via Toledo 214, 80132 Napoli, Naples
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Pasticceria Bellavia in Naples' Vomero has run a Campanian-Sicilian carte since 1925, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the standout daily.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-21:00 on Via Luca Giordano. Counter only; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bellavia in Vomero on Via Luca Giordano is the long-running neighbourhood pasticceria and bar, with the sfogliatella riccia, the babà bagnati and the small.
Tip: Open daily from 06:30; the sfogliatella riccia and the babà are the lead-orders. The bar runs a busy morning coffee crowd.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has poured the babà au rhum since 1905, the rum-soaked yeast cake at every Sunday lunch table.
Tip: Babà runs 3 euros at the counter; the takeaway boxes start at 12 euros for a half-dozen.
Worth the queue: Babà au rhum
Leopoldo's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti pours the same taralli sugna and pepper as the Casavatore mother shop, plus the daily sfogliatella and the babà run.
Tip: Open daily 06:30-21:30. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo; sfogliatella runs 2 euros at the counter.
Worth the queue: Taralli sugna e pepe
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has run the pastry counter since 1905, with the ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc) the house signature plus.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-21:00. Ministeriale at 4 euros; sfogliatella riccia 2 euros 50 at the counter.
Worth the queue: Ministeriale (chocolate-rum disc)
