Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Paris actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Paris actually eats.
Bouillon Chartier has run a workers' canteen of a brasserie in Paris's 9e since 1896. The menu still puts œuf mayonnaise on for less than €3.
OrderŒuf mayonnaise, hachis Parmentier, baba au rhum.
TipThe queue moves; arrive at 11:30 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner and you sit fast.
Bouillon Pigalle in Paris reopened the bouillon model in 2017 and now seats 300 with no reservation, no shortcut, a mains-under-€12 daily menu.
OrderPoulet rôti, frites maison, île flottante with caramel.
TipQueue from 19:00 for dinner; the line moves and tables turn every 45 minutes.
Le Petit Vendôme in Paris's 2e makes the city's most-cited jambon-beurre and feeds the Place Vendôme jeweller staff at lunch from 11:30 every weekday.
OrderJambon-beurre on baguette tradition; the daily plat for under €18.
TipStanding at the bar is faster than a table; sandwiches travel well to the gardens.
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Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 5-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, using fresh produce from the local market to turn into a memorable 3-c...
Chez Paul in Paris's 11e has run a corner bistro at the same Charonne address since 1908. The carte changes by season; the bistro chairs do not.
OrderBeef tartare cut by hand, cassoulet in winter, profiteroles for dessert.
TipClosed Sundays. The pavement terrace is the best seat from May to September.
Le Square Trousseau in Paris's 12e is the kind of belle-époque brasserie a fashion editor uses for a long Saturday lunch on the Marché d'Aligre side.
OrderSteak tartare cut by hand, crème brûlée; a pichet of Sancerre at lunch.
TipOpen daily; no booking required for the terrace, reserve indoor seating in winter.
Le Petit Cler in Paris sits on Rue Cler, the embassy market street, and runs an all-day bistro carte of croque-monsieur, steak frites and Lyonnais salads.
OrderCroque-monsieur at lunch, steak frites at dinner, a glass of Brouilly.
TipThe terrace catches sun until 19:00 in summer; the back room is the warmer winter pick.
La Fontaine de Belleville in Paris is Belleville Brûlerie's day-long café-bistro: third-wave coffee, tartines, plat du jour, and a wine list past 18:00.
OrderA tartine at 11:00, the plat du jour at 13:00, a glass of Beaujolais at 18:00.
TipOpen 08:00-22:00 daily; the back room is quieter for laptop work mid-morning.
Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.
OrderCôte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.
TipTwo seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.
Chez Omar in Paris has plated couscous royal under brass lanterns on Rue de Bretagne since 1978. Located in 3E. Kitchen leans north african.
OrderCouscous royal with merguez, lamb and chicken; baklava for dessert.
TipCash only. No reservations; arrive before 20:00 to skip the line on Saturday.
La Poule au Pot in Paris's Les Halles cooks the Henri IV chicken-in-the-pot at its historical address. The menu of grand-mère bistro classics has not changed.
OrderPoule au pot Henri IV for two, soufflé Grand Marnier to finish.
TipThe room is small and warm. Book a banquette table over the centre seats.
Chez Michel in Paris cooks Breton-Norman regional French in the 10e, kig-ha-farz in winter, a kouign-amann for two as dessert. Priced at €€.
OrderWhatever game or fish is on the daily menu; the kouign-amann to finish.
TipThe annex tables in the cave are the quieter option; book at least a week ahead.
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Paris's 6e runs one menu: salade aux noix, contre-filet steak, fries, secret-recipe butter sauce. No menus, no choice, no booking.
OrderSteak medium-rare, frites for the second helping, profiteroles to finish.
TipQueue from 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. The Marais branch is the easier ticket.
Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex: quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
OrderQuenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua; Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Lunch midweek runs a €40 set with the same kitchen.
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family.
OrderTuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
TipThe terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.
La Rôtisserie d'Argent in Paris is La Tour d'Argent's bistro annex on the Seine. The Bresse chicken comes off the rotisserie in the room, no a la carte.
OrderQuarter Bresse chicken, frites in beef fat, the famed pressed-duck dessert.
TipThe terrace catches the Notre-Dame light; ask for table 4 by the window in spring.
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond in Paris keeps the 1879 dining room intact and the carte true to its Norman roots: tripes à la mode de Caen, Calvados sorbet.
OrderTripes à la mode de Caen, Camembert flambé in Calvados, sorbet to finish.
TipThe room is listed Historic Monument. Sit on the upper level for the tile mosaics.
Le Cherche Midi in Paris's 6e is the neighbourhood Italian trattoria the Saint-Germain set treats as a canteen. Hand-rolled pasta cooked to order, daily.
OrderWhatever filled pasta is on the daily menu, the tiramisu, a glass of Sangiovese.
TipOpen seven days. Lunch is the steal; the prix fixe lands under €25 with coffee.
Polidor in Paris has run a Latin-Quarter bistro at the same address since 1845. The carte still holds bœuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin.
OrderBœuf bourguignon in winter, tarte tatin with crème fraîche, a pichet of red.
TipCash preferred. The shared tables are part of the experience; come at 19:30 to share with strangers.