The places in Paris the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.

Off the beaten plate

Chez Aline ★ 4.5

€€ Cafe

Chez Aline in Paris's 11e is the sandwich counter Delphine Zampetti runs on Rue de la Roquette. Twelve seats, daily-rotating fillings, queue forms at 12:00.

Why locals goA 12-seat sandwich counter on Rue de la Roquette where Delphine Zampetti rotates daily-fresh fillings; locals queue, tourists walk past.

TipGet there by 12:30 or the morning batch is gone. Closed Sunday and Monday; cash and card both work.

La Buvette ★ 4.7

€€ Wine bar

La Buvette in Paris's 11e is Camille Fourmont's 16-seat wine bar putting white beans and fish rillettes on every editorial radar. The list is electric.

Why locals goCamille Fourmont's 16-seat wine-and-snack room hides at the back of the 11e; the white-beans-in-citrus-oil dish moves the room every weekend.

TipClosed Monday and Tuesday. Arrive at 18:00 or after 21:30 for a counter stool.

Aux Lyonnais ★ 4.3

€€ French regional

Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais annex on Rue Saint-Marc. At 32 Rue Saint-Marc. Booking recommended. Cash and card accepted.

Why locals goAlain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex sits unmarked behind a curtain on Rue Saint-Marc; the chef name brings the food, the lack of branding hides it.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The €40 set lunch midweek is the same kitchen at half the dinner price.

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Le Baratin ★ 4.7

€€ Argentine

Le Baratin in Paris's 20e is the Argentine-French intuition bistro Raquel Carena has cooked at since 1992. The chef's favourite chef's restaurant, locals say.

Why locals goRaquel Carena's Belleville bistro is the room every Parisian chef calls their favourite when no one is listening; the address is unsigned.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday, often Saturday too. Phone bookings only; no website, no walk-ins.

6 Paul Bert ★ 4.5

€€ French bistro

6 Paul Bert in Paris is the unsigned annex of Bistrot Paul Bert two doors down. Seafood and natural wines, 20 seats, the same group's quieter sister room.

Why locals goThe unsigned second restaurant of Bistrot Paul Bert two doors down; a 20-seat seafood-and-natural-wine room where the same group cooks fish and shellfish.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book a week ahead for dinner; lunch is easier walk-up.

Chez Julien ★ 4.2

€€ French bistro

Chez Julien in Paris's 4e sits on the Seine quai opposite Île Saint-Louis. At 1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

Why locals goA 19th-century painted-ceiling bistro on the Seine quai opposite Île Saint-Louis with no street sign and 15 seats; the dining room sets a movie scene.

TipOpen daily lunch and dinner. The riverside terrace is the seat; book a fortnight ahead for sunset.

L'Ami Jean ★ 4.5

€€ Basque

Stéphane Jégo's L'Ami Jean in Paris's 7e is the Basque bistro on Rue Malar where the chalkboard menu changes daily. At 27 Rue Malar. Booking recommended.

Why locals goStéphane Jégo's basque-bistro hidden on Rue Malar in the 7e, with no chalkboard outside; locals book three weeks ahead for the daily-changing menu.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book three weeks ahead for dinner; the lunch set is the easier ticket.

La Grande Crèmerie ★ 4.4

€€ Wine bar

La Grande Crèmerie in Paris's 6e is the small natural-wine room on Rue Grégoire-de-Tours with charcuterie plates and a 600-bottle cellar. Booking recommended.

Why locals goA 14-seat natural-wine room on Rue Grégoire-de-Tours in the 6e with no menu board outside; the wine cellar runs to 600 bottles.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Phone bookings only; the cellar holds the deeper natural list.

Clamato ★ 4.5

€€ Seafood

Clamato in Paris is Septime's no-reservation seafood little sister at 80 Rue de Charonne. Oysters, ceviche, grilled hake from 19:00; walk-in only, 24 stools.

Why locals goSeptime's no-reservation seafood little sister; even regulars queue from 18:45 for the 24 stools and never know whether they'll sit.

TipArrive at 18:45 for the first seating or after 21:30 for the second wave. No phone reservations.

La Cave de l'Insolite ★ 4.3

€€ Wine bar

La Cave de l'Insolite in Paris's 11e is the natural-wine cave-and-bistro on Rue de la Folie-Méricourt. At 30 Rue de la Folie-Méricourt. Booking recommended.

Why locals goA natural-wine cave-and-bistro on Rue de la Folie-Méricourt with no street sign; the two-room dining floor sits past the bottle shop and the proprietor's desk.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The €25 cheese-and-charcuterie sharing plate feeds three; phone only.

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