Bouillon Chartier has run a workers' canteen of a brasserie in Paris's 9e since 1896. The menu still puts œuf mayonnaise on for less than €3.
Signature dishes: Œuf mayonnaise, Hachis Parmentier
Must order: Œuf mayonnaise, hachis Parmentier, baba au rhum.
Tip: The queue moves; arrive at 11:30 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner and you sit fast.
Address: 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 Paris
Bouillon Pigalle in Paris reopened the bouillon model in 2017 and now seats 300 with no reservation, no shortcut, a mains-under-€12 daily menu.
Signature: Poulet rôti, Île flottante
Order: Poulet rôti, frites maison, île flottante with caramel.
Tip: Queue from 19:00 for dinner; the line moves and tables turn every 45 minutes.
Le Petit Vendôme in Paris's 2e makes the city's most-cited jambon-beurre and feeds the Place Vendôme jeweller staff at lunch from 11:30 every weekday.
Signature: Jambon-beurre, Plat du jour
Order: Jambon-beurre on baguette tradition; the daily plat for under €18.
Tip: Standing at the bar is faster than a table; sandwiches travel well to the gardens.
Chez Paul in Paris's 11e has run a corner bistro at the same Charonne address since 1908. The carte changes by season; the bistro chairs do not.
Signature: Beef tartare, Cassoulet
Order: Beef tartare cut by hand, cassoulet in winter, profiteroles for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sundays. The pavement terrace is the best seat from May to September.
Le Square Trousseau in Paris's 12e is the kind of belle-époque brasserie a fashion editor uses for a long Saturday lunch on the Marché d'Aligre side.
Signature: Steak tartare, Crème brûlée
Order: Steak tartare cut by hand, crème brûlée; a pichet of Sancerre at lunch.
Tip: Open daily; no booking required for the terrace, reserve indoor seating in winter.
Le Petit Cler in Paris sits on Rue Cler, the embassy market street, and runs an all-day bistro carte of croque-monsieur, steak frites and Lyonnais salads.
Signature: Croque-monsieur, Steak frites
Order: Croque-monsieur at lunch, steak frites at dinner, a glass of Brouilly.
Tip: The terrace catches sun until 19:00 in summer; the back room is the warmer winter pick.
La Fontaine de Belleville in Paris is Belleville Brûlerie's day-long café-bistro: third-wave coffee, tartines, plat du jour, and a wine list past 18:00.
Signature: Tartine, Café crème
Order: A tartine at 11:00, the plat du jour at 13:00, a glass of Beaujolais at 18:00.
Tip: Open 08:00 to 22:00 daily; the back room is quieter for laptop work mid-morning.
