Chez Michel in Paris cooks Breton-Norman regional French in the 10e: kig-ha-farz in winter, a kouign-amann for two as dessert, no a la carte at all.
Signature dishes: Kouign-amann, Game in winter
Must order: Whatever game or fish is on the daily menu; the kouign-amann to finish.
Tip: The annex tables in the cave are the quieter option; book at least a week ahead.
Address: 10 Rue de Belzunce, 75010 Paris
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Paris's 6e runs one menu: salade aux noix, contre-filet steak, fries, secret-recipe butter sauce. No menus, no choice, no booking.
Signature: Steak frites with house sauce, Profiteroles
Order: Steak medium-rare, frites for the second helping, profiteroles to finish.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. The Marais branch is the easier ticket.
Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex: quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
Signature: Quenelle de brochet, Saint-Marcellin
Order: Quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua; Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch midweek runs a €40 set with the same kitchen.
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family since the 90s.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Steak with Roquefort
Order: Tuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
Tip: The terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.
La Rôtisserie d'Argent in Paris is La Tour d'Argent's bistro annex on the Seine. The Bresse chicken comes off the rotisserie in the room, no a la carte.
Signature: Rotisserie chicken, Frites cooked in beef fat
Order: Quarter Bresse chicken, frites in beef fat, the famed pressed-duck dessert.
Tip: The terrace catches the Notre-Dame light; ask for table 4 by the window in spring.
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond in Paris keeps the 1879 dining room intact and the carte true to its Norman roots: tripes à la mode de Caen, Calvados sorbet.
Signature: Tripes à la mode de Caen, Camembert flambé
Order: Tripes à la mode de Caen, Camembert flambé in Calvados, sorbet to finish.
Tip: The room is listed Historic Monument. Sit on the upper level for the tile mosaics.
Le Cherche Midi in Paris's 6e is the neighbourhood Italian trattoria the Saint-Germain set treats as a canteen. Hand-rolled pasta cooked to order, daily.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Tiramisu
Order: Whatever filled pasta is on the daily menu, the tiramisu, a glass of Sangiovese.
Tip: Open seven days. Lunch is the steal; the prix fixe lands under €25 with coffee.
