French bistro€€6e
Polidor in Paris has run a Latin-Quarter bistro at the same address since 1845. The carte still holds bœuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin.
Signature: Bœuf bourguignon, Tarte tatin
Order: Bœuf bourguignon in winter, tarte tatin with crème fraîche, a pichet of red.
Tip: Cash preferred. The shared tables are part of the experience; come at 19:30 to share with strangers.
Brasserie€9e
Bouillon Chartier has run a workers' canteen of a brasserie in Paris's 9e since 1896. The menu still puts œuf mayonnaise on for less than €3.
Signature: Œuf mayonnaise, Hachis Parmentier
Order: Œuf mayonnaise, hachis Parmentier, baba au rhum.
Tip: The queue moves; arrive at 11:30 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner and you sit fast.
Brasserie€18e
Bouillon Pigalle in Paris reopened the bouillon model in 2017 and now seats 300 with no reservation, no shortcut, a mains-under-€12 daily menu.
Signature: Poulet rôti, Île flottante
Order: Poulet rôti, frites maison, île flottante with caramel.
Tip: Queue from 19:00 for dinner; the line moves and tables turn every 45 minutes.
French bistro€2e
Le Petit Vendôme in Paris's 2e makes the city's most-cited jambon-beurre and feeds the Place Vendôme jeweller staff at lunch from 11:30 every weekday.
Signature: Jambon-beurre, Plat du jour
Order: Jambon-beurre on baguette tradition; the daily plat for under €18.
Tip: Standing at the bar is faster than a table; sandwiches travel well to the gardens.
French bistro€€11e
Chez Paul in Paris's 11e has run a corner bistro at the same Charonne address since 1908. The carte changes by season; the bistro chairs do not.
Signature: Beef tartare, Cassoulet
Order: Beef tartare cut by hand, cassoulet in winter, profiteroles for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sundays. The pavement terrace is the best seat from May to September.
Brasserie€€12e
Le Square Trousseau in Paris's 12e is the kind of belle-époque brasserie a fashion editor uses for a long Saturday lunch on the Marché d'Aligre side.
Signature: Steak tartare, Crème brûlée
Order: Steak tartare cut by hand, crème brûlée; a pichet of Sancerre at lunch.
Tip: Open daily; no booking required for the terrace, reserve indoor seating in winter.