Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex: quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
Signature dishes: Quenelle de brochet, Saint-Marcellin
Must order: Quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua; Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch midweek runs a €40 set with the same kitchen.
Address: 32 Rue Saint-Marc, 75002 Paris
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family since the 90s.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Steak with Roquefort
Order: Tuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
Tip: The terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.
La Rôtisserie d'Argent in Paris is La Tour d'Argent's bistro annex on the Seine. The Bresse chicken comes off the rotisserie in the room, no a la carte.
Signature: Rotisserie chicken, Frites cooked in beef fat
Order: Quarter Bresse chicken, frites in beef fat, the famed pressed-duck dessert.
Tip: The terrace catches the Notre-Dame light; ask for table 4 by the window in spring.
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond in Paris keeps the 1879 dining room intact and the carte true to its Norman roots: tripes à la mode de Caen, Calvados sorbet.
Signature: Tripes à la mode de Caen, Camembert flambé
Order: Tripes à la mode de Caen, Camembert flambé in Calvados, sorbet to finish.
Tip: The room is listed Historic Monument. Sit on the upper level for the tile mosaics.
Le Cherche Midi in Paris's 6e is the neighbourhood Italian trattoria the Saint-Germain set treats as a canteen. Hand-rolled pasta cooked to order, daily.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Tiramisu
Order: Whatever filled pasta is on the daily menu, the tiramisu, a glass of Sangiovese.
Tip: Open seven days. Lunch is the steal; the prix fixe lands under €25 with coffee.
Polidor in Paris has run a Latin-Quarter bistro at the same address since 1845. The carte still holds bœuf bourguignon, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin.
Signature: Bœuf bourguignon, Tarte tatin
Order: Bœuf bourguignon in winter, tarte tatin with crème fraîche, a pichet of red.
Tip: Cash preferred. The shared tables are part of the experience; come at 19:30 to share with strangers.
Bouillon Chartier has run a workers' canteen of a brasserie in Paris's 9e since 1896. The menu still puts œuf mayonnaise on for less than €3.
Signature: Œuf mayonnaise, Hachis Parmentier
Order: Œuf mayonnaise, hachis Parmentier, baba au rhum.
Tip: The queue moves; arrive at 11:30 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner and you sit fast.
