Chez Omar in Paris has plated couscous royal under brass lanterns on Rue de Bretagne since 1978. The bistro chairs and the fashion crowd are part of the seasoning.
Signature dishes: Couscous royal, Tagine
Must order: Couscous royal with merguez, lamb and chicken; baklava for dessert.
Tip: Cash only. No reservations; arrive before 20:00 to skip the line on Saturday.
Address: 47 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family since the 90s.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Steak with Roquefort
Order: Tuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
Tip: The terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.
La Poule au Pot in Paris's Les Halles cooks the Henri IV chicken-in-the-pot at its historical address. The menu of grand-mère bistro classics has not changed.
Signature: Poule au pot Henri IV, Soufflé Grand Marnier
Order: Poule au pot Henri IV for two, soufflé Grand Marnier to finish.
Tip: The room is small and warm. Book a banquette table over the centre seats.
Chez Michel in Paris cooks Breton-Norman regional French in the 10e: kig-ha-farz in winter, a kouign-amann for two as dessert, no a la carte at all.
Signature: Kouign-amann, Game in winter
Order: Whatever game or fish is on the daily menu; the kouign-amann to finish.
Tip: The annex tables in the cave are the quieter option; book at least a week ahead.
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Paris's 6e runs one menu: salade aux noix, contre-filet steak, fries, secret-recipe butter sauce. No menus, no choice, no booking.
Signature: Steak frites with house sauce, Profiteroles
Order: Steak medium-rare, frites for the second helping, profiteroles to finish.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. The Marais branch is the easier ticket.
Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex: quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
Signature: Quenelle de brochet, Saint-Marcellin
Order: Quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua; Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch midweek runs a €40 set with the same kitchen.
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family since the 90s.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Steak with Roquefort
Order: Tuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
Tip: The terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.
La Rôtisserie d'Argent in Paris is La Tour d'Argent's bistro annex on the Seine. The Bresse chicken comes off the rotisserie in the room, no a la carte.
Signature: Rotisserie chicken, Frites cooked in beef fat
Order: Quarter Bresse chicken, frites in beef fat, the famed pressed-duck dessert.
Tip: The terrace catches the Notre-Dame light; ask for table 4 by the window in spring.
