Chez Paul in Paris's 11e has run a corner bistro at the same Charonne address since 1908. The carte changes by season; the bistro chairs do not.
Signature dishes: Beef tartare, Cassoulet
Must order: Beef tartare cut by hand, cassoulet in winter, profiteroles for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sundays. The pavement terrace is the best seat from May to September.
Address: 13 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
Le Square Trousseau in Paris's 12e is the kind of belle-époque brasserie a fashion editor uses for a long Saturday lunch on the Marché d'Aligre side.
Signature: Steak tartare, Crème brûlée
Order: Steak tartare cut by hand, crème brûlée; a pichet of Sancerre at lunch.
Tip: Open daily; no booking required for the terrace, reserve indoor seating in winter.
Le Petit Cler in Paris sits on Rue Cler, the embassy market street, and runs an all-day bistro carte of croque-monsieur, steak frites and Lyonnais salads.
Signature: Croque-monsieur, Steak frites
Order: Croque-monsieur at lunch, steak frites at dinner, a glass of Brouilly.
Tip: The terrace catches sun until 19:00 in summer; the back room is the warmer winter pick.
La Fontaine de Belleville in Paris is Belleville Brûlerie's day-long café-bistro: third-wave coffee, tartines, plat du jour, and a wine list past 18:00.
Signature: Tartine, Café crème
Order: A tartine at 11:00, the plat du jour at 13:00, a glass of Beaujolais at 18:00.
Tip: Open 08:00 to 22:00 daily; the back room is quieter for laptop work mid-morning.
Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.
Signature: Côte de bœuf grilled on log fire, Aligot
Order: Côte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.
Tip: Two seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.
Chez Omar in Paris has plated couscous royal under brass lanterns on Rue de Bretagne since 1978. The bistro chairs and the fashion crowd are part of the seasoning.
Signature: Couscous royal, Tagine
Order: Couscous royal with merguez, lamb and chicken; baklava for dessert.
Tip: Cash only. No reservations; arrive before 20:00 to skip the line on Saturday.
La Poule au Pot in Paris's Les Halles cooks the Henri IV chicken-in-the-pot at its historical address. The menu of grand-mère bistro classics has not changed.
Signature: Poule au pot Henri IV, Soufflé Grand Marnier
Order: Poule au pot Henri IV for two, soufflé Grand Marnier to finish.
Tip: The room is small and warm. Book a banquette table over the centre seats.
