North African€€3eMon-Sat 12:00-14:30, 19:00-23:30; Sun 19:00-23:30
Chez Omar in Paris has plated couscous royal under brass lanterns on Rue de Bretagne since 1978. Located in 3E. Kitchen leans north african.
Signature: Couscous royal, Tagine
Order: Couscous royal with merguez, lamb and chicken; baklava for dessert.
Tip: Cash only. No reservations; arrive before 20:00 to skip the line on Saturday.
French Bistro€€€1erTue-Sat 12:00-14:00, 19:00-23:00
La Poule au Pot in Paris's Les Halles cooks the Henri IV chicken-in-the-pot at its historical address. The menu of grand-mère bistro classics has not changed.
Signature: Poule au pot Henri IV, Soufflé Grand Marnier
Order: Poule au pot Henri IV for two, soufflé Grand Marnier to finish.
Tip: The room is small and warm. Book a banquette table over the centre seats.
French Regional€€10eMon-Fri 12:00-13:30, 19:00-21:30; closed Sat-Sun
Chez Michel in Paris cooks Breton-Norman regional French in the 10e, kig-ha-farz in winter, a kouign-amann for two as dessert. Priced at €€.
Signature: Kouign-amann, Game in winter
Order: Whatever game or fish is on the daily menu; the kouign-amann to finish.
Tip: The annex tables in the cave are the quieter option; book at least a week ahead.
French Bistro€€6eMon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 18:30-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte in Paris's 6e runs one menu: salade aux noix, contre-filet steak, fries, secret-recipe butter sauce. No menus, no choice, no booking.
Signature: Steak frites with house sauce, Profiteroles
Order: Steak medium-rare, frites for the second helping, profiteroles to finish.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. The Marais branch is the easier ticket.
French Regional€€€2eTue-Sat 12:00-14:15, 19:00-22:30
Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex: quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
Signature: Quenelle de brochet, Saint-Marcellin
Order: Quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua; Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch midweek runs a €40 set with the same kitchen.
French Bistro€€3eDaily, lunch and dinner
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Steak with Roquefort
Order: Tuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
Tip: The terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.