Four white meats set cold in a lightly vinegared jelly and eaten straight from the pot with hot frites, which melt the jelly into a sauce as you go.

The name is Flemish for little pot of meats, and the dish is recorded in Taillevent's Viandier of 1486 as already popular around Dunkerque. Westhoek farmers made it in winter, preserving good cuts with wine, vinegar and spice rather than salt or smoke, and ate it cold in the fields at harvest. Purists use rabbit, chicken and pork; a fourth camp adds veal. It reaches Lille from the coast and is now a fixture of every estaminet card on Rue de Gand.

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