Welsh
Photo: Bake Across Europe · CC BY-SA 4.0

Cheddar melted down in beer and poured over toast spread with mustard and a slice of ham, then browned hard under the grill and buried under frites.

The dish is Welsh in origin and English in name, and how it reached the Nord is not settled. One story puts Welsh soldiers at Baincthun during the 1544 siege of Boulogne, though no reliable source supports it. What is certain is that it took root along the Cote d'Opale and across Nord-Pas-de-Calais, where the French version is heavier and more orange than the British one. Lille has run a Welsh'Fest every November since 2023, which tells you how seriously the city takes it.

6 editor picks for Welsh in Lille, ranked by editorial score. All Lille signature dishes · Welsh across every city.

Au Georges V ★ 4.3

€€French regionalVauban-Esquermes

Au Georges V on Boulevard de la Liberté in Lille calls itself the temple of welsh, and runs a smoked version alongside potjevleesch and carbonade.

OrderThe welsh fumé, made with a blend of classic and smoked cheddar.

TipA vegetarian welsh is on the card. The current owners took the place on in 2022.

Les Compagnons de la Grappe ★ 4.3

€€FrenchVieux-Lille

Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.

OrderOnglet frites, cooked over the grill.

TipThe kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.

La Ducasse ★ 4.2

€€French regionalGambetta

La Ducasse has anchored the corner of Rue Solférino in Lille since 1979, an estaminet of welsh, carbonade flamande and andouillette casseroles.

OrderThe welsh, cheddar melted flat under the grill.

TipThe estaminet has kept the same regional card since 1979, cooked from fresh local produce.

Estaminet Chez Ronny ★ 4.1

€€French regionalVieux-Lille

Chez Ronny on Rue de Gand in Lille is a 1970s-dressed estaminet named for the northern artist Ronny Coutteure, cooking northern French and Belgian plates.

OrderBoulets à la liégeoise, the Belgian meatballs in sirop de Liège.

TipSunday is lunch only, and it runs on bookings. It is the newest estaminet on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.

L'Estaminet du Welsh ★ 4.0

€€French regionalVieux-Lille

L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.

OrderThe welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.

TipClosed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.

Le Barbier qui Fume (Place Rihour) ★ 4.0

€€American BBQLille-Centre

The Place Rihour branch of Le Barbier qui Fume in Lille runs non-stop from 10:00 to midnight, and puts smoked ham and Galloway cheddar into its welsh.

OrderThe welsh, made with smoked ham and Galloway cheddar.

TipNon-stop service all day means it solves the 16:00 problem in central Lille.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Welsh makes more sense with someone from Lille explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

Book food experiences in Lille

Sunday Food Tour, Discovering Lille

Guided tour · 3 hours

Sunday Food Tour, Discovering Lille

A gourmet tour of 6 spots to discover Lille! Enjoy small portions from Vieux Lille's best savory and sweet spots. Fun facts and good vibes with our fantastic guides!

from€65 Check dates
Lille Beer Tour★ 5.0 (2)

Guided tour · 2 hours

Lille Beer Tour

A guided zythological walk that will take you from specialized bars and wine merchants to micro-breweries to discover the know-how and the brewing revival that is shak...

from€35 Check dates

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