Cheddar melted down in beer and poured over toast spread with mustard and a slice of ham, then browned hard under the grill and buried under frites.
The dish is Welsh in origin and English in name, and how it reached the Nord is not settled. One story puts Welsh soldiers at Baincthun during the 1544 siege of Boulogne, though no reliable source supports it. What is certain is that it took root along the Cote d'Opale and across Nord-Pas-de-Calais, where the French version is heavier and more orange than the British one. Lille has run a Welsh'Fest every November since 2023, which tells you how seriously the city takes it.
Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.
OrderOnglet frites, cooked over the grill.
TipThe kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.
Chez Ronny on Rue de Gand in Lille is a 1970s-dressed estaminet named for the northern artist Ronny Coutteure, cooking northern French and Belgian plates.
OrderBoulets à la liégeoise, the Belgian meatballs in sirop de Liège.
TipSunday is lunch only, and it runs on bookings. It is the newest estaminet on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.
A gourmet tour of 6 spots to discover Lille! Enjoy small portions from Vieux Lille's best savory and sweet spots. Fun facts and good vibes with our fantastic guides!
A guided zythological walk that will take you from specialized bars and wine merchants to micro-breweries to discover the know-how and the brewing revival that is shak...