Mussels steamed open in white wine, shallot, parsley and butter, served in the pot with a paper cone of frites kept separately so they stay crisp.

Cheap mussels off the Flemish coast met cheap winter potatoes, and the pairing became the national dish of Belgium and the default of northern France. In Lille it is bound to the Braderie: on the first weekend of September the restaurants serve mussels by the tonne and stack the empty shells on the pavement, competing for the tallest heap. A typical edition gets through around 500 tonnes of mussels and 30 tonnes of frites. Marinière is the standard, but maroilles, curry and beer versions are all common here.

3 editor picks for Moules-frites in Lille, ranked by editorial score. All Lille signature dishes · Moules-frites across every city.

Also in: Bruges, Brussels.