Bintje potatoes fried twice, the second time in beef fat, served in a paper cone with a fricadelle, the long skinless sausage of the northern friterie.

The friterie is its own institution in the Nord, a wooden hut or a shopfront doing one thing properly. Frites are cut fresh, blanched at low heat and finished hot, traditionally in beef fat rather than oil, which is what gives them their flavour and their reputation. The fricadelle is the standard partner, a mixed-meat sausage with no skin, fried until dark. Sauces run to andalouse, samourai and, in Lille, a maroilles sauce that no other region attempts.

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