Belgian endives braised until bitter-sweet, wrapped in ham, laid in bechamel and baked under cheese until the top blisters. Called chicons here, never endives.

The endive is the winter vegetable of the Nord, grown in the dark so it stays pale and tight. Lille calls it a chicon, and the gratin is what the region does with it: braised, wrapped in ham, buried in bechamel and finished with cheese. Maroilles turns up in place of gruyere in the estaminets, which makes the dish considerably more assertive. It is a household dish before it is a restaurant one, and it sits on the estaminet card in Lille all winter alongside carbonade.

2 editor picks for Chicons au gratin in Lille, ranked by editorial score. All Lille signature dishes · Chicons au gratin across every city.

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