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Wine barPigneto
Il Tiaso is on pigneto's quieter via ascoli piceno corner, this natural-wine cellar runs late nights for the local pigneto crowd and few tourists.
Why locals goOn Pigneto's quieter Via Ascoli Piceno corner, this natural-wine cellar runs late nights for the local Pigneto crowd and few tourists.
TipOpen daily 18:30-02:00. The Tuesday and Thursday wine-flight tastings cost 15 euros for three glasses.
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ItalianTrastevere
Da Cesare al Casaletto (Italian) in Rome: Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch. Tram 8 from Trastevere terminates 200m from the door; cab back is 12 euros.
Why locals goTwenty minutes from Trastevere by tram 8, this Sunday-lunch trattoria stays off the tourist circuit while running the city's most-discussed fried cacio e pepe.
TipBook a week ahead for Sunday lunch. Tram 8 from Trastevere terminates 200m from the door; cab back is 12 euros.
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ItalianOstiense
Trattoria Pennestri is a italian room in Ostiense. Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
Why locals goHidden in the south Ostiense industrial edge, Tommaso Pennestri's modern trattoria runs the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata under most tourist radars.
TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
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Street foodTestaccio
Mordi e Vai is tucked inside the mercato di testaccio at box 15, sergio esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
Why locals goTucked inside the Mercato di Testaccio at box 15, Sergio Esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
TipClosed Sunday. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.
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ItalianTestaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome: Small-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
Why locals goSmall-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
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ItalianCentocelle
180g Pizzeria Romana is a italian room in Centocelle. Closed Monday. Book a week ahead. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk; or 12 euros cab from centre.
Why locals goJacopo Mercuro's modern Roman pizzeria sits in Centocelle, the eastern fringe of the city, away from the Centro Storico tourist trails.
TipClosed Monday. Book a week ahead. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk; or 12 euros cab from centre.