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French Bistro2e
Gregory Marchand's Frenchie sits on Paris's Rue du Nil, the alley he and his suppliers turned into a four-shop street: bistro, bar, wine cellar.
OrderWhatever the bavette is dressed with that week, and the pavlova for dessert.
TipIf the bistro is booked, the Frenchie Bar à Vins across the alley takes walk-ups and runs the same kitchen.
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French Fine Dining1er
Two centuries of dining-room history at Le Grand Véfour, the Palais-Royal mirror-and-velvet salon where Paris cooked dinner for Napoleon, Colette and Cocteau.
OrderThe ravioles de foie gras at the chef's prix-fixe lunch.
TipTuesday-Friday lunch is a third the price of dinner and books two weeks out, not four months.
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French Bistro2e
Chez Georges has run the same Paris bistro menu since 1964: sole meunière, oeufs en gelée, profiteroles. Located in 2E. Kitchen leans french bistro.
OrderSole meunière, gratin dauphinois, profiteroles to finish.
TipClosed weekends and August. Tables turn twice; book 19:30 or 21:30 a fortnight out.
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Modern European1er
Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian's Verjus in Paris's 1er runs a no-choice tasting menu and a bar-à-vins below, both built around growers' wines and seasonal.
OrderWhatever course features fermented or pickled produce that night.
TipIf Verjus is booked, the Verjus Bar à Vins downstairs takes walk-ups and runs the same wine list.
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Italian2e
Racines in Paris's Passage des Panoramas pours an Italian-leaning natural-wine list and serves hand-rolled pasta from Simone Tondo. Twelve tables, all dinner.
OrderWhatever filled pasta is on, a steak with rocket, the panna cotta.
TipThe Passage des Panoramas closes its gates at night; ring the bell to be let through.