Le Mermoz in Paris's 8e is the neighbourhood bistro chef Thomas Graham took over after Manon Fleury: a single chalkboard, fish-forward small plates at lunch.
Signature: Beef tartare, Brown-butter cake
Order: Whatever raw-fish starter is up, the beef tartare, the brown-butter cake.
Tip: Lunch only Mon-Wed, dinner Thu-Fri, no service Sat-Sun. Book a week ahead for dinner.
Bouillon Pigalle in Paris reopened the bouillon model in 2017 and now seats 300 with no reservation, no shortcut, a mains-under-€12 daily menu.
Signature: Poulet rôti, Île flottante
Order: Poulet rôti, frites maison, île flottante with caramel.
Tip: Queue from 19:00 for dinner; the line moves and tables turn every 45 minutes.
La Machine du Moulin Rouge in Paris's 18e is the three-room club and concert hall next door to the cabaret, with the Bar à Bulles cocktail terrace.
Tip: Club nights are Fri-Sat midnight to 06:00; Bar à Bulles upstairs from 18:00 most nights for a slower start.
The Ranch on the 7th-floor roof of the Terrass Hotel in Paris's 18e Montmartre is the western-styled cocktail lounge with desert plants and a view that takes.
Tip: No reservations on the roof; Sunday afternoons are calmer than Friday evenings. Tapas and cocktails from €14.
Café Lapérouse Concorde in Paris's 8e Hôtel de la Marine is the Cordelia de Castellane brasserie with two arcaded terraces, one over Place de la Concorde.
Tip: Skip the indoor room and book the Concorde-facing terrace for sunset; cocktails €18-22, oysters by the half-dozen.