Racines in Paris's Passage des Panoramas pours an Italian-leaning natural-wine list and serves hand-rolled pasta from Simone Tondo. Twelve tables, all dinner.
Signature dishes: Hand-rolled pasta, Aged beef
Must order: Whatever filled pasta is on, a steak with rocket, the panna cotta.
Tip: The Passage des Panoramas closes its gates at night; ring the bell to be let through.
Address: 8 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris
Gregory Marchand's Frenchie sits on Paris's Rue du Nil, the alley he and his suppliers turned into a four-shop street: bistro, bar, wine cellar, sandwich window.
Signature: Beef bavette, Pavlova
Order: Whatever the bavette is dressed with that week, and the pavlova for dessert.
Tip: If the bistro is booked, the Frenchie Bar à Vins across the alley takes walk-ups and runs the same kitchen.
Le Bistrot Flaubert in Paris's 17e is the Michel Rostang bistro annex now run by Nicolas Baumann and the Groupe Éclore team. The cooking discipline holds; the room runs at half mothership prices.
Signature: Veal liver, Floating island
Order: Whatever offal main is up, the chocolate dessert, a glass of saint-joseph.
Tip: Lunch is the steal: a two-course set for under €35, including a glass of wine and coffee.
Tomy Gousset's Tomy & Co in Paris's 7e earned a Michelin star in 2018 and still runs the seasonal kitchen everyone in the embassy quarter books for a long lunch.
Signature: Sweetbreads, Pithivier of game
Order: Sweetbreads in winter, pithivier of game in autumn, the soufflé to finish.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The five-course tasting at €98 is the deal of the room on weeknights.
Le Mermoz in Paris's 8e is the neighbourhood bistro chef Thomas Graham took over after Manon Fleury: a single chalkboard, fish-forward small plates at lunch and a longer carte at dinner.
Signature: Beef tartare, Brown-butter cake
Order: Whatever raw-fish starter is up, the beef tartare, the brown-butter cake.
Tip: Lunch only Mon-Wed, dinner Thu-Fri, no service Sat-Sun. Book a week ahead for dinner.
Le Bistrot Paris in the 7e runs a classic carte where the lunch menu rotates daily and dinner stays close to the Lyonnais playbook. A regulars' room.
Signature: Steak tartare, Profiteroles
Order: Steak tartare with a poached egg, profiteroles with hot chocolate sauce.
Tip: The lunch menu at €24 is the city's most under-rated set, including coffee and a small carafe.
Bertrand Grébaut's Septime in Paris remains the room every neo-bistro in the city compares itself to. Reservations open 21 days ahead and burn within an hour.
Signature: Cured mackerel, Smoked egg yolk
Order: The cured mackerel starter and whatever fish is on the second course.
Tip: Easier on a Tuesday lunch than Friday dinner. Same kitchen, same wine, half the wait list.
Gregory Marchand's Frenchie sits on Paris's Rue du Nil, the alley he and his suppliers turned into a four-shop street: bistro, bar, wine cellar, sandwich window.
Signature: Beef bavette, Pavlova
Order: Whatever the bavette is dressed with that week, and the pavlova for dessert.
Tip: If the bistro is booked, the Frenchie Bar à Vins across the alley takes walk-ups and runs the same kitchen.
