Le Mermoz ★ 4.4
Le Mermoz in Paris's 8e is the neighbourhood bistro chef Thomas Graham took over after Manon Fleury: a single chalkboard, fish-forward small plates at lunch and a longer carte at dinner.
Signature: Beef tartare, Brown-butter cake
Order: Whatever raw-fish starter is up, the beef tartare, the brown-butter cake.
Tip: Lunch only Mon-Wed, dinner Thu-Fri, no service Sat-Sun. Book a week ahead for dinner.