France's regional kitchens find a home in Paris through rooms that specialise in one corner of the country, from Lyonnais bouchon cooking to the cured meats of the southwest. These places trade on tradition rather than reinvention. Aux Lyonnais in the 2nd arrondissement serves the dishes of Lyon, while Chez Michel near the Gare du Nord in the 10th works a Breton repertoire.
Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.
OrderCôte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.
TipTwo seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.
Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex: quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
OrderQuenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua; Saint-Marcellin from Mère Richard.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Lunch midweek runs a €40 set with the same kitchen.
Chez Michel in Paris cooks Breton-Norman regional set menus at €36 for three courses, no a la carte at all. Kig-ha-farz, fish soup, kouign-amann to finish.
OrderSet menu
TipThe annex tables in the cave are the quieter option; book at least a week ahead for the cave seats.
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