Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.
Signature: Côte de bœuf grilled on log fire, Aligot
Order: Côte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.
Tip: Two seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.
Chez Omar in Paris has plated couscous royal under brass lanterns on Rue de Bretagne since 1978. Located in 3E. Kitchen leans north african.
Signature: Couscous royal, Tagine
Order: Couscous royal with merguez, lamb and chicken; baklava for dessert.
Tip: Cash only. No reservations; arrive before 20:00 to skip the line on Saturday.
Le Petit Marché in Paris's 3e Marais is the locals' off-the-Place-des-Vosges bistro: an Asian-tilted twist on French staples, run by the same family.
Signature: Tuna tartare, Steak with Roquefort
Order: Tuna tartare with sesame, steak with Roquefort, crème brûlée to finish.
Tip: The terrace fronts a quiet square. Book a fortnight ahead for a Friday or Saturday.
Skybar Paris in the 14e is the 32nd-floor private rooftop on top of the Pullman Montparnasse, 115 metres above the city, with floor-to-ceiling glass and DJ.
Tip: Strict door, email-only bookings opening 30 days out; cocktails €18-24 and the Eiffel-side window booths book up first.
Andy Wahloo in Paris's 3e Marais is the Mourad Mazouz cocktail lounge stacked with Moroccan tea-canister stools and a North African disco soundtrack.
Tip: Sunday-Monday closed; Friday-Saturday DJ nights book up fast. Smaller back room is the quieter table.
Le Mary Celeste in Paris's 3e Marais is the corner cocktail and oyster bar opened 2012 by the Experimental Cocktail Club team, with a long zinc counter.
Tip: Oysters Tue-Sat from €3 each; the early evening at 18:00 is when the high-tops free up.
Le Tango in Paris's 3e Marais is the cooperative-run queer dance hall on Rue au Maire, with themed Friday-Saturday nights and a 70s-tinged room that welcomes.
Tip: €12 at the door; come for the salsa-and-pop early hours, stay for the late DJ shift after 01:00.
Raidd Bar in Paris's 4e Marais is the Rue du Temple landmark gay bar opened 2003, famous for the nightly midnight shower show where dancers perform inside.
Tip: Shower show is on at midnight every night; arrive 23:30 for a spot near the tank, the back room thins after 02:00.
Freedj in Paris's 4e Marais is the two-floor Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie gay bar with a ground-floor bar, foosball table and a basement dance floor.
Tip: Happy hour 18:00-22:00; basement opens 22:00 and gets going by midnight. Glassed smoking room upstairs.
Bears' Den in Paris's 4e Marais is the three-level Rue des Lombards bear bar, with a street-level seating room, a basement karaoke level and a stone-walled.
Tip: Karaoke is on the first basement most nights from 21:00; the back cave gets going after midnight on Saturday.
Le Quetzal in Paris's 4e Marais is the corner-of-Verrerie cruise-friendly gay bar with a long daily happy hour and weekend DJs that pulls the after-work.
Tip: Happy hour 17:00-22:00; weekend DJs start 23:00. The back room is busier after midnight.
Le Duplex in Paris's 3e Marais is one of the oldest gay bars on Rue Michel le Comte, now into its 38th year, with a mixed crowd that comes for new wave.
Tip: Quieter than the Rue des Archives strip; arrive before 22:00 for a stool. The smoking terrace is the meeting spot.