Raquel Carena cooks Argentine-French intuition food at Le Baratin, the Belleville room every Parisian chef calls their favourite when no one is listening.
OrderThe sweetbreads if they are on, and a glass from Philippe Pinoteau's natural list.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday, often Saturday too. Phone bookings only, no website.
Brasserie de l'Etre on Rue Duvergier in the 19e brews certified-organic Parisian beer. Edward Jalat-Dehen founded the social-economy microbrewery in 2014.
Glazart in Paris's 19e is the converted Porte de la Villette bus station hosting the city's most consistent after-hours, with weekend daytime sets from 06:30.
TipSunday daytime 06:30-16:00 is the famed after; arrive by Métro 7 Porte de la Villette and bring layers for the outdoor sand pit.
La Bellevilloise in Paris's 20e Ménilmontant is the four-floor Maison du Peuple built 1908 and reopened in 2006 as a 2,000m² venue with the Halle aux.
TipThe Sunday jazz brunch in the Halle aux Oliviers runs 11:00-15:00, €38 with live trio; book a fortnight ahead.
La Maroquinerie in Paris's 20e Ménilmontant is the 500-capacity former leather workshop next to La Bellevilloise, with a sweat-soaked basement room.
TipThe courtyard restaurant opens 19:00 for a pre-show plate; doors usually 19:30, headliner at 21:00.
Le Trabendo in Paris's 19e Parc de la Villette is the 700-capacity red-clad Bernard Tschumi folie booking emerging rap, alt-rock and electronic acts.
TipClosest entry is Métro 5 Porte de Pantin; the terrace opens 19:00 for a pre-set drink.
Aux Folies in Paris's 20e Belleville is the Rue de Belleville corner dive on the famed Rue Dénoyez street-art alley, open until 05:00 daily.
TipHappy hour 16:00-24:00; the terrace fills first, the back room past midnight. Cash and card accepted.
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