Itanoni Flor del Maiz ★ 4.7
Itanoni on Belisario Dominguez is Amado Ramirez Leyva and Gabriela Fernandez Orantes's criollo-corn tortilleria since 2001, where rainbow maize lands.
SignatureMemelas, Tetelas, Tlayudas
Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Oaxaca actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Oaxaca actually eats.
Itanoni on Belisario Dominguez is Amado Ramirez Leyva and Gabriela Fernandez Orantes's criollo-corn tortilleria since 2001, where rainbow maize lands.
SignatureMemelas, Tetelas, Tlayudas
Zandunga on Garcia Vigil runs Tehuantepec-isthmus food in a corner-room courtyard, with garnachas and banana-leaf tamales since 2002 on the Andador strip.
SignatureGarnachas istmenas, Tamales tehuanos
La Teca in Reforma is Deyanira Aquino Pineda's 30-year Istmo institution, a five-table room where banana-leaf tamales and garnachas arrive on enamel plates.
SignatureGarnachas istmenas, Tamales de mole tehuano
Yu Ne Nisa (Land and Water in Zapotec) on Amapolas runs Istmo cooking in a quiet Reforma residential strip, with cocina de autor takes on Tehuano classics.
SignatureTotopos istmenos, Chile relleno de marlin
Restaurante Catedral one block from the cathedral runs a generous courtyard with live music nightly and a seven-moles platter on the standard menu.
SignatureSeven moles, Chile relleno, Sopa azteca
Las Quince Letras on Abasolo near Santo Domingo is Celia Florian's women-owned mole room since 1992, where the mole negro runs more than thirty ingredients.
SignatureMole negro, Duo de moles
La Olla on Reforma is Pilar Cabrera's twenty-year converted-house room two blocks from Santo Domingo, the kitchen that built the Casa de los Sabores school.
SignatureMole oaxaqueno, Chiles rellenos, Sopa de guias
Los Pacos on Abasolo with a rooftop terrace runs seven moles on one tasting board (negro, coloradito, amarillo, verde, chichilo, manchamanteles and rojo).
SignatureSeven moles tasting, Tlayuda
Cabuche near the Zocalo is an inviting Oaxacan room with a deep pulque, mezcal and craft-beer list and a 100-peso two-course comida corrida lunch daily.
SignatureComida corrida, Mole oaxaqueno, Pulque mezcal flight
Comala on Pino Suarez is a Centro restaurant-bar with a leafy courtyard, serving Oaxacan plates from morning to 1am, with a mezcal and craft cocktail list.
SignatureTetelas, Memelas, Mezcal cocktails
Hierba Santa on Independencia is a Centro Oaxacan kitchen that runs around the namesake leaf, with a mole program and a Pacific-catch second course.
SignatureSopa de hierba santa, Pescado a la talla, Mole oaxaqueno
El Asador Vasco on the Zocalo's upper Portal de Flores is Oaxaca's long-running Spanish-Basque grill with a balcony table over the plaza for nights out.
SignatureChuleton, Paella, Bacalao al pil-pil
El Sol y La Luna on Pino Suarez is the Centro wood-fired pizza room with handmade pasta, a long-running Italian table at a quiet end of Cinco de Mayo.
SignatureWood-fired pizza, Handmade pasta
Mezcalogia on Garcia Vigil is the Casa Cortes family's El Jolgorio mezcaleria with a strong kitchen of Oaxacan plates and a 200-bottle mezcal cocktail bar.
SignatureTlayuda, Tetelas, Mezcal cocktails
El Destilado on Cinco de Mayo runs share-plate a la carte beyond the tasting menu, with Mexican sake, natural wine and an in-house mezcal pairing flight.
SignatureA la carte share plates, Mezcal pairing

Guided tour · 4 hours
Experience the real Oaxaca on this evening food tour through lively street stalls and neighbourhood kitchens. With 14+ tastings, discover the bold flavours beloved by locals.

Day trip · 6 hours
Our experience is a full immersion in the mezcal culture and all the tradition that surrounds it. Transportation, agave fields, artisanal distillery, mezcal tasting & ...

Guided tour · 3.5 hours
Explore Oaxaca’s colorful streets and markets! Taste a variety of local dishes, from handmade tlayudas to rich black mole, while learning the stories and flavors behin...