Pasillo de Humo ★ 4.6
Pasillo de Humo inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre runs charcoal-grilled tasajo, cecina and chorizo by the half-kilo from a dozen stands, 80-150 pesos a plate.
Try: Tasajo, cecina, chorizo
Eat well in Oaxaca for under €15 a plate: the places locals on a budget actually use.
Cheap eats worth seeking out
Tlayudas Libres ★ 4.6
Tlayudas Libres on Calle de Los Libres serves a full tlayuda from the wood-grill stand for 80-120 pesos, the canonical Oaxacan late-night cheap meal.
Try: Tlayuda
Lechoncito de Oro ★ 4.6
Lechoncito de Oro on Calle de Los Libres slings tacos de lechon (suckling pig) for 25-60 pesos each from 8pm to 3am, cash only, the late-night standard.
Try: Tacos de lechon
Comedor Yolis (Mercado Sanchez Pascuas) ★ 4.0
Comedor Yolis inside Mercado Sanchez Pascuas runs comida-corrida lunch for 60-80 pesos and 20-peso tamales from morning, the locals-only daily crowd.
Try: Tamales and memelas
Memelas Dona Vale ★ 4.6
Memelas Dona Vale at Mercado de Abastos charges 15-30 pesos per memela with morita-chile sauce, asiento and quesillo on the comal, the budget breakfast.
Try: Memelas with morita chile
Cabuche (comida corrida) ★ 4.2
Cabuche on Hidalgo runs a 100-peso comida corrida lunch (two dishes, fresh fruit-water and coffee), the best-value full-table Oaxacan meal in Centro.
Try: Two-course set lunch
Itanoni ★ 4.5
Itanoni in Reforma charges 25-70 pesos for criollo-corn memelas and tetelas off the wood-fired comal, the best price-quality for traditional Oaxacan masa.
Try: Memelas, tetelas
Empanadas del Carmen Alto ★ 4.3
Oaxacan empanada stall on Jesus Carranza, Centro, Oaxaca. Mole amarillo, hoja santa and shredded-chicken empanadas on a comal; under MXN $40.
Try: Empanada de mole amarillo
Tamales oaxaquenos (Mercado Sanchez Pascuas) ★ 4.3
The tamal counters inside Mercado Sanchez Pascuas charge 20-30 pesos for a banana-leaf tamal oaxaqueno (mole negro, amarillo, rajas) from 06:00 each morning.
Try: Tamal de mole negro
Tejate at Mercado Benito Juarez ★ 4.2
Tejate vendors at Mercado Benito Juarez charge 20-40 pesos for a gourd bowl of foamed prehispanic maize-cacao drink, the budget Oaxacan refreshment standard.
Try: Tejate (cacao-maize drink)
Chocolate Mayordomo (chocolate de agua) ★ 4.2
Chocolate Mayordomo on Mina charges 25-45 pesos for chocolate de agua in a ceramic mug, with pan de yema for dunking on the side for an extra 10 pesos.
Try: Chocolate de agua
Nieves Manolo ★ 4.4
Nieves Manolo on Macedonio Alcala scoops nieve de leche quemada and tuna for 30-50 pesos, the 1953 family stand near the Plaza de la Danza lake.
Try: Nieve de leche quemada
Comala ★ 4.0
Comala on Pino Suarez keeps memelas and tetelas at 60-120 pesos, with a 110-peso desayuno set Mon-Sat from 09:00 in the leafy courtyard for slow mornings.
Try: Memelas, tetelas
Zocalo evening esquites carts ★ 4.0
The Zocalo evening esquites and elote carts charge 25-50 pesos for a cup of corn with mayo, queso fresco, chile and lime, the canonical plaza-evening snack.
Try: Esquites and elotes
Pan:am (breakfast) ★ 4.1
Pan:am on Abasolo charges 80-180 pesos for a full chilaquiles or enchiladas suizas breakfast plate, with the in-house bakery's pan dulce on the side.
Try: Chilaquiles and pan dulce
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