Pasillo de Humo
- ★ 4.6
- $
- Centro Historico
Try Tasajo, cecina, chorizo
Pasillo de Humo inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre runs charcoal-grilled tasajo, cecina and chorizo by the half-kilo from a dozen stands, 80-150 pesos a plate.
Eat well in Oaxaca without overpaying: the locals'-budget edition.
Eat well in Oaxaca for under €15 a plate: the places locals on a budget actually use.
15 places
Try Tasajo, cecina, chorizo
Pasillo de Humo inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre runs charcoal-grilled tasajo, cecina and chorizo by the half-kilo from a dozen stands, 80-150 pesos a plate.
Try Tlayuda
Tlayudas Libres on Calle de Los Libres serves a full tlayuda from the wood-grill stand for 80-120 pesos, the canonical Oaxacan late-night cheap meal.
Try Tacos de lechon
Lechoncito de Oro on Calle de Los Libres slings tacos de lechon (suckling pig) for 25-60 pesos each from 8pm to 3am, cash only, the late-night standard.



Try Tamales and memelas
Comedor Yolis inside Mercado Sanchez Pascuas runs comida-corrida lunch for 60-80 pesos and 20-peso tamales from morning, the locals-only daily crowd.
Try Memelas with morita chile
Memelas Dona Vale at Mercado de Abastos charges 15-30 pesos per memela with morita-chile sauce, asiento and quesillo on the comal, the budget breakfast.
Try Two-course set lunch
Cabuche on Hidalgo runs a 100-peso comida corrida lunch (two dishes, fresh fruit-water and coffee), the best-value full-table Oaxacan meal in Centro.
Try Empanada de mole amarillo
Oaxacan empanada stall on Jesus Carranza, Centro, Oaxaca. Mole amarillo, hoja santa and shredded-chicken empanadas on a comal; under MXN $40.
Try Tamal de mole negro
The tamal counters inside Mercado Sanchez Pascuas charge 20-30 pesos for a banana-leaf tamal oaxaqueno (mole negro, amarillo, rajas) from 06:00 each morning.
Try Tejate (cacao-maize drink)
Tejate vendors at Mercado Benito Juarez charge 20-40 pesos for a gourd bowl of foamed prehispanic maize-cacao drink, the budget Oaxacan refreshment standard.
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Try Chocolate de agua
Chocolate Mayordomo on Mina charges 25-45 pesos for chocolate de agua in a ceramic mug, with pan de yema for dunking on the side for an extra 10 pesos.
Try Nieve de leche quemada
Nieves Manolo on Macedonio Alcala scoops nieve de leche quemada and tuna for 30-50 pesos, the 1953 family stand near the Plaza de la Danza lake.
Try Memelas, tetelas
Comala on Pino Suarez keeps memelas and tetelas at 60-120 pesos, with a 110-peso desayuno set Mon-Sat from 09:00 in the leafy courtyard for slow mornings.
Try Esquites and elotes
The Zocalo evening esquites and elote carts charge 25-50 pesos for a cup of corn with mayo, queso fresco, chile and lime, the canonical plaza-evening snack.
Try Chilaquiles and pan dulce
Pan:am on Abasolo charges 80-180 pesos for a full chilaquiles or enchiladas suizas breakfast plate, with the in-house bakery's pan dulce on the side.
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