Day-by-day eating plans for Oaxaca. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Day-by-day plans

Oaxaca weekend: moles, mezcal and the Andador ★ 4.8

First-time visitor, 2 days2 days

A weekend built around the seven moles, the Pasillo de Humo at Mercado 20 de Noviembre, the Andador's mezcalerias and a Sunday market run.

  1. Day 1: Saturday: markets, moles and the Andador

    Morning
    Mercado Sanchez Pascuas at 08:00. Tejate from the comedor counters and tamales oaxaquenos at Yolis. Walk south past Santo Domingo to Boulenc for a second coffee and pastries.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Las Quince Letras on Abasolo (book at 14:00). Duo de moles with chicken (negro and amarillo). Walk the Andador to Mezcaloteca by appointment for a 4-mezcal tasting flight.
    Evening
    Dinner at Tierra del Sol on Reforma at 20:00; rooftop comal for tetelas and chichilo. After 22:30 walk to Tlayudas Libres on Calle de Los Libres for a wood-grilled nightcap tlayuda.

  2. Day 2: Sunday: market, mole and a slow evening

    Morning
    Mercado de Abastos at 09:00 (or Tlacolula tianguis if you have a car). Memelas Dona Vale, mole-paste row, fresh quesillo. Back to Centro by 12:00.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Itanoni on Belisario Dominguez at 13:30 (take a taxi). Memelas with squash blossom and a tetela with mole amarillo; criollo-corn atole.
    Evening
    Sundowner at Sabina Sabe on Cinco de Mayo at 18:30 (mezcal cocktails). Dinner at Casa Oaxaca on Constitucion at 20:30; rooftop table for tableside guacamole and mole negro.

Oaxaca three days: tasting menus and palenques ★ 4.9

Experienced food traveller, 3 days3 days

Three days of Oaxaca's most ambitious kitchens (Levadura de Olla, Origen, Pitiona) with a day-trip to Santiago Matatlan's mezcal palenques on day two.

  1. Day 1: Day 1: arrival, Origen, Sabina Sabe

    Morning
    Settle in. Brunch at Boulenc on Porfirio Diaz from 10:00, sourdough toast and chilaquiles. Walk Santo Domingo and the Andador to acclimatise.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante on Constitucion at 14:00; mole negro on the rooftop. Walk to Mezcaloteca by appointment at 16:00 for the educational flight.
    Evening
    Dinner at Origen on Benito Juarez at 20:30; tasting menu with mezcal pairing. Walk to Sabina Sabe for a final mezcal nightcap.

  2. Day 2: Day 2: mezcal palenques and Hierve el Agua

    Morning
    Pickup at 09:00 with The Mezcal Journey or A Chef's Tour van. Highway 190 east to Santiago Matatlan; first palenque visit by 11:00.
    Afternoon
    Lunch in Mitla town. Second palenque at 14:30. Hierve el Agua at 16:00 for the petrified-waterfall pools and Comedor Citlaly for tlayudas.
    Evening
    Back in Oaxaca by 19:30. Dinner at El Destilado on Cinco de Mayo at 20:00; tasting menu with mezcal and Mexican-sake pairing.

  3. Day 3: Day 3: Levadura de Olla and the Andador close

    Morning
    Slow start at Muss Cafe on Hidalgo at 09:30. Walk Garcia Vigil up to the Mercado de Abastos for the mole-paste row at 11:00.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Levadura de Olla on Garcia Vigil at 14:00; the Sierra Sur tasting menu (book six weeks ahead). Slow walk back to hotel.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Selva on Macedonio Alcala at 19:00 (Oaxacan-ingredient cocktails). Dinner at Pitiona on Allende at 21:00; tasting menu with pairings.

Oaxaca for vegans: three days of plant-based cooking ★ 4.6

Vegan, 3 days3 days

Three days of vegan and plant-based Oaxaca cooking, anchored at Hierba Dulce, Nanita, Santa Hierba and Boulenc, with a Teotitlan day trip.

  1. Day 1: Day 1: Centro and Boulenc

    Morning
    Breakfast at Boulenc on Porfirio Diaz at 09:00 (vegan-marked tostados and gluten-free pancakes). Walk Santo Domingo and the chocolate row on Mina.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Hierba Dulce on Porfirio Diaz at 14:00 (fully vegan Oaxacan, the namesake-herb tisanes). Walk to Mercado Benito Juarez for tejate and chocolate.
    Evening
    Dinner at Comala on Pino Suarez at 20:00 (mole verde with vegetables, memelas with frijol). Mezcal cocktail in the courtyard.

  2. Day 2: Day 2: Jalatlaco and a vegan brunch

    Morning
    Brunch at Santa Hierba on Cinco de Mayo Jalatlaco at 10:00 (rooftop courtyard, plant-based plates). Walk the murals of Jalatlaco.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Nanita on Ninos Heroes at 14:00 (vegan chilaquiles and pozole verde). Coffee at Muss Cafe on Hidalgo at 16:30.
    Evening
    Dinner at Itanoni on Belisario Dominguez at 19:30 (criollo-corn memelas with squash blossom, frijol and hierba santa, all vegetarian).

  3. Day 3: Day 3: Teotitlan del Valle and a final mezcal

    Morning
    Taxi to Teotitlan del Valle at 09:00. Zapotec weaving demo and a vegan-friendly Tlamanalli plant lunch (vegetable mole amarillo).
    Afternoon
    Back in Oaxaca by 15:30. Slow afternoon at Suculenta on Porfirio Diaz inside the Boulenc courtyard for fermentos, conservas and a seasonal mushroom plate.
    Evening
    Final dinner at Boulenc on Porfirio Diaz at 20:00; mushroom banh mi and gluten-free pancakes. Mezcal-and-friends nightcap at La Popular on Garcia Vigil.
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