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Istmeno (tehuano)Reforma
La Teca in Reforma is Deyanira Aquino Pineda's 30-year Istmo institution, a five-table room where banana-leaf tamales and garnachas arrive on enamel plates.
SignatureGarnachas istmenas, Tamales de mole tehuano
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Istmeno (zapotec)Reforma
Yu Ne Nisa (Land and Water in Zapotec) on Amapolas runs Istmo cooking in a quiet Reforma residential strip, with cocina de autor takes on Tehuano classics.
SignatureTotopos istmenos, Chile relleno de marlin
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Traditional OaxacanCentro Historico
Restaurante Catedral one block from the cathedral runs a generous courtyard with live music nightly and a seven-moles platter on the standard menu.
SignatureSeven moles, Chile relleno, Sopa azteca
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Traditional OaxacanCentro Historico
Las Quince Letras on Abasolo near Santo Domingo is Celia Florian's women-owned mole room since 1992, where the mole negro runs more than thirty ingredients.
SignatureMole negro, Duo de moles
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Traditional OaxacanCentro Historico
La Olla on Reforma is Pilar Cabrera's twenty-year converted-house room two blocks from Santo Domingo, the kitchen that built the Casa de los Sabores school.
SignatureMole oaxaqueno, Chiles rellenos, Sopa de guias
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Traditional OaxacanCentro Historico
Los Pacos on Abasolo with a rooftop terrace runs seven moles on one tasting board (negro, coloradito, amarillo, verde, chichilo, manchamanteles and rojo).
SignatureSeven moles tasting, Tlayuda