Venetian seafood€€€san-polo
Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu sign on the door.
Signature: Spaghetti with lagoon clams, Fritto misto, Sarde in saor
Order: Spaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.
Venetian seafood trattoria€€€castello
Trattoria Corte Sconta in Venice's Castello is the courtyard seafood room that locals and chefs in town quietly book first, the canonical hidden-courtyard fish trattoria.
Signature: Antipasto misto di pesce crudo, Spaghetti with clams, Granseola
Order: Antipasto misto, spaghetti vongole, granseola when in season.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead. The pergola courtyard is the seat to ask for in summer. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Venetian seafood, modern€€€castello
Osteria alle Testiere in Venice's Castello is the 22-seat room with two seatings, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita on Calle del Mondo Novo since 1993.
Signature: Gnocchetti with calamari, Branzino in crosta di sale, Marinated anchovies
Order: Gnocchetti with calamari and cinnamon, branzino in salt crust, the salty antipasti.
Tip: Two seatings only: 12:30 + 13:30 for lunch, 19:15 + 21:30 for dinner. Book at least a fortnight ahead through their online form.
Modern Venetian€€€€castello
Local in Venice's Castello is the 1-Michelin-star room run by Salvatore Sodano and Benedetta Fullin near the Greek quarter, serving 7 and 9-course tasting menus.
Signature: Tasting menu of lagoon ingredients, Sea urchin, Risotto
Order: The 9-course tasting menu, the wine pairing from the 1000-label cellar.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch. Book a fortnight ahead online. The wine pairing is the move; their cellar leans heavily on Friulian whites.
Modern Venetian, small plates€€€castello
CoVino in Venice's Castello is the 12-seat modern bistro with a Slow Food Presidia carte and an ever-changing five-course tasting menu, all paired with natural wines.
Signature: Tasting menu with wine pairing, Lagoon fish small plates, Slow Food Presidia ingredients
Order: The five-course tasting menu, the natural-wine pairing.
Tip: 12 seats total. Book a week ahead by email or through the website. Set five-course menu only at dinner.
Modern Venetian, natural wine€€€dorsoduro
Estro Vino e Cucina in Venice's Dorsoduro is the Spezzamonte brothers' modern bistro with 700 sustainable wines and a Michelin Guide listing for good cooking.
Signature: Pasta with lagoon fish, Cicchetti modernised, Natural wine flight
Order: The pasta of the day, the cicchetti tasting, a natural-wine flight from the 700-label list.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays. The cicchetti at the bar are excellent and don't need a booking; the dining room does.
Venetian seafood, classic€€san-polo
Trattoria alla Madonna in Venice near the Rialto is the 1954-founded room with a turnover that fills 200 seats twice a day, the canonical Venetian fish lunchroom.
Signature: Sarde in saor, Spaghetti vongole, Fritto misto
Order: Sarde in saor, spaghetti vongole, fegato alla veneziana.
Tip: Walk-in only. Arrive at 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays. Two waves through the dining room every service.
Modern Venetian seafood€€€cannaregio
Osteria Anice Stellato in Venice's Cannaregio is the canal-side modern Venetian seafood room on Fondamenta de la Sensa, with outdoor tables along the rio in summer.
Signature: Bigoli in salsa, Marinated anchovies, Fish ravioli
Order: Bigoli in salsa, marinated anchovies, the daily ravioli.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Book outdoor terrace on the rio in summer through their email or the dishcult listing.
Burano lagoon seafood€€€lagoon-islands
Trattoria al Gatto Nero on Burano is the 1965-founded Bovo family room run by Massimiliano Bovo, the canonical lagoon-fish lunch on the colourful fishing island.
Signature: Risotto di go (lagoon goby risotto), Bigoli with cuttlefish, Mixed grilled fish
Order: Risotto di go, bigoli al nero di seppia, the mixed grilled fish from the lagoon.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead online. Ferry 12 from Fondamente Nove takes 45 minutes. Closed Mondays.
Historic Venetian, Renaissance recipes€€€san-marco
Bistrot de Venise near San Marco is the 1993 room that cooks from manuscripts of the Anonimo Veneziano and Renaissance Venetian cookbooks, the only such kitchen in the lagoon.
Signature: Anonimo Veneziano 14th-century recipes, Renaissance dishes, Saor of historic origin
Order: The historic-tasting carte, the Renaissance saor of sole, the medieval risi e bisi.
Tip: Two carte: contemporary and historic. The historic side is the reason to book; their Renaissance tasting needs 48 hours' notice.
Venetian, vegetable-led€€santa-croce
Osteria La Zucca in Venice's Santa Croce is the 35-seat canal-side room that built its reputation on a vegetable-forward Venetian carte, with a handful of meat plates.
Signature: Pumpkin flan with ricotta, Vegetable lasagna, Beef tagliata
Order: Pumpkin and ricotta flan, vegetable lasagna, the daily vegetable side board.
Tip: Book a week ahead by phone. Closed Sundays. The canal-side tables fit only 12 covers; ask specifically when you book.
Venetian, classic€€€€lagoon-islands
Locanda Cipriani on Torcello is the 1934-founded Cipriani-family lagoon outpost that Hemingway used for lunch, the canonical garden-restaurant on the silent island.
Signature: Risotto alla torcellana, Carpaccio Cipriani, Filetti di San Pietro
Order: Risotto alla torcellana, carpaccio Cipriani, the daily fish baked in the garden's wood oven.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays and the whole of January. Ferry 12 from Fondamente Nove, 45 minutes. Book outdoor garden tables when you reserve.
Venetian classic, Cipriani€€€€san-marco
Harry's Bar on Calle Vallaresso is the 1931 Cipriani family room that invented the carpaccio and the Bellini, the canonical historic-bar lunchroom in San Marco.
Signature: Carpaccio, Risotto alla primavera, Calf's liver Venetian-style
Order: Bellini at the ground-floor bar, beef carpaccio upstairs, risotto alla primavera.
Tip: Drinking at the bar costs a fraction of upstairs dining; the Bellini is the reason to stop. Book upstairs through OpenTable a fortnight ahead.
Venetian, traditional€€€cannaregio
Vini da Gigio in Venice's Cannaregio is the Lazzari family's canal-side trattoria, a Slow Food-listed family room running the canonical Venetian carte since 1981.
Signature: Bigoli in salsa, Fegato alla veneziana, Branzino al sale
Order: Bigoli in salsa, fegato alla veneziana, branzino in salt crust.
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The wine cellar runs to 1,200 labels. Book a week ahead online or by phone.
Modern Venetian, canal-side€€€san-polo
Osteria Bancogiro in Venice's San Polo is the Grand Canal terrace bistro at the foot of the Rialto, with a downstairs bacaro and an upstairs dining room.
Signature: Tagliata di tonno, Sarde in saor, Crab and ricotta ravioli
Order: Sarde in saor at the bacaro counter, then ravioli with crab and ricotta upstairs on the canal.
Tip: Lower-floor cicchetti are walk-in. Book the upstairs dining room with a Grand Canal table through the website a week ahead.