Modern Venetian€€€€castello
Local in Venice's Castello is the 1-Michelin-star room run by Salvatore Sodano and Benedetta Fullin near the Greek quarter, serving 7 and 9-course tasting menus.
Signature: Tasting menu of lagoon ingredients, Sea urchin, Risotto
Order: The 9-course tasting menu, the wine pairing from the 1000-label cellar.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch. Book a fortnight ahead online. The wine pairing is the move; their cellar leans heavily on Friulian whites.
Modern Venetian, small plates€€€castello
CoVino in Venice's Castello is the 12-seat modern bistro with a Slow Food Presidia carte and an ever-changing five-course tasting menu, all paired with natural wines.
Signature: Tasting menu with wine pairing, Lagoon fish small plates, Slow Food Presidia ingredients
Order: The five-course tasting menu, the natural-wine pairing.
Tip: 12 seats total. Book a week ahead by email or through the website. Set five-course menu only at dinner.
Modern Venetian, natural wine€€€dorsoduro
Estro Vino e Cucina in Venice's Dorsoduro is the Spezzamonte brothers' modern bistro with 700 sustainable wines and a Michelin Guide listing for good cooking.
Signature: Pasta with lagoon fish, Cicchetti modernised, Natural wine flight
Order: The pasta of the day, the cicchetti tasting, a natural-wine flight from the 700-label list.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays. The cicchetti at the bar are excellent and don't need a booking; the dining room does.
Venetian seafood, classic€€san-polo
Trattoria alla Madonna in Venice near the Rialto is the 1954-founded room with a turnover that fills 200 seats twice a day, the canonical Venetian fish lunchroom.
Signature: Sarde in saor, Spaghetti vongole, Fritto misto
Order: Sarde in saor, spaghetti vongole, fegato alla veneziana.
Tip: Walk-in only. Arrive at 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays. Two waves through the dining room every service.
Modern Venetian seafood€€€cannaregio
Osteria Anice Stellato in Venice's Cannaregio is the canal-side modern Venetian seafood room on Fondamenta de la Sensa, with outdoor tables along the rio in summer.
Signature: Bigoli in salsa, Marinated anchovies, Fish ravioli
Order: Bigoli in salsa, marinated anchovies, the daily ravioli.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Book outdoor terrace on the rio in summer through their email or the dishcult listing.
Burano lagoon seafood€€€lagoon-islands
Trattoria al Gatto Nero on Burano is the 1965-founded Bovo family room run by Massimiliano Bovo, the canonical lagoon-fish lunch on the colourful fishing island.
Signature: Risotto di go (lagoon goby risotto), Bigoli with cuttlefish, Mixed grilled fish
Order: Risotto di go, bigoli al nero di seppia, the mixed grilled fish from the lagoon.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead online. Ferry 12 from Fondamente Nove takes 45 minutes. Closed Mondays.