Osteria Bancogiro in Venice's San Polo is the Grand Canal terrace bistro at the foot of the Rialto, with a downstairs bacaro and an upstairs dining room.
Signature dishes: Tagliata di tonno, Sarde in saor, Crab and ricotta ravioli
Must order: Sarde in saor at the bacaro counter, then ravioli with crab and ricotta upstairs on the canal.
Tip: Lower-floor cicchetti are walk-in. Book the upstairs dining room with a Grand Canal table through the website a week ahead.
Address: Campo San Giacometto 122, San Polo, 30125 Venezia VE, Venice
Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu sign on the door.
Signature: Spaghetti with lagoon clams, Fritto misto, Sarde in saor
Order: Spaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.
Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu sign on the door.
Signature: Spaghetti with lagoon clams, Fritto misto, Sarde in saor
Order: Spaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.
Trattoria Corte Sconta in Venice's Castello is the courtyard seafood room that locals and chefs in town quietly book first, the canonical hidden-courtyard fish trattoria.
Signature: Antipasto misto di pesce crudo, Spaghetti with clams, Granseola
Order: Antipasto misto, spaghetti vongole, granseola when in season.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead. The pergola courtyard is the seat to ask for in summer. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Osteria alle Testiere in Venice's Castello is the 22-seat room with two seatings, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita on Calle del Mondo Novo since 1993.
Signature: Gnocchetti with calamari, Branzino in crosta di sale, Marinated anchovies
Order: Gnocchetti with calamari and cinnamon, branzino in salt crust, the salty antipasti.
Tip: Two seatings only: 12:30 + 13:30 for lunch, 19:15 + 21:30 for dinner. Book at least a fortnight ahead through their online form.
Local in Venice's Castello is the 1-Michelin-star room run by Salvatore Sodano and Benedetta Fullin near the Greek quarter, serving 7 and 9-course tasting menus.
Signature: Tasting menu of lagoon ingredients, Sea urchin, Risotto
Order: The 9-course tasting menu, the wine pairing from the 1000-label cellar.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch. Book a fortnight ahead online. The wine pairing is the move; their cellar leans heavily on Friulian whites.
CoVino in Venice's Castello is the 12-seat modern bistro with a Slow Food Presidia carte and an ever-changing five-course tasting menu, all paired with natural wines.
Signature: Tasting menu with wine pairing, Lagoon fish small plates, Slow Food Presidia ingredients
Order: The five-course tasting menu, the natural-wine pairing.
Tip: 12 seats total. Book a week ahead by email or through the website. Set five-course menu only at dinner.
Estro Vino e Cucina in Venice's Dorsoduro is the Spezzamonte brothers' modern bistro with 700 sustainable wines and a Michelin Guide listing for good cooking.
Signature: Pasta with lagoon fish, Cicchetti modernised, Natural wine flight
Order: The pasta of the day, the cicchetti tasting, a natural-wine flight from the 700-label list.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays. The cicchetti at the bar are excellent and don't need a booking; the dining room does.
