Venetian seafood, modern€€€castello
Osteria alle Testiere in Venice's Castello is the 22-seat room with two seatings, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita on Calle del Mondo Novo since 1993.
Signature: Gnocchetti with calamari, Branzino in crosta di sale, Marinated anchovies
Order: Gnocchetti with calamari and cinnamon, branzino in salt crust, the salty antipasti.
Tip: Two seatings only: 12:30 + 13:30 for lunch, 19:15 + 21:30 for dinner. Book at least a fortnight ahead through their online form.
Modern Venetian€€€€castello
Local in Venice's Castello is the 1-Michelin-star room run by Salvatore Sodano and Benedetta Fullin near the Greek quarter, serving 7 and 9-course tasting menus.
Signature: Tasting menu of lagoon ingredients, Sea urchin, Risotto
Order: The 9-course tasting menu, the wine pairing from the 1000-label cellar.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch. Book a fortnight ahead online. The wine pairing is the move; their cellar leans heavily on Friulian whites.
Modern Venetian, small plates€€€castello
CoVino in Venice's Castello is the 12-seat modern bistro with a Slow Food Presidia carte and an ever-changing five-course tasting menu, all paired with natural wines.
Signature: Tasting menu with wine pairing, Lagoon fish small plates, Slow Food Presidia ingredients
Order: The five-course tasting menu, the natural-wine pairing.
Tip: 12 seats total. Book a week ahead by email or through the website. Set five-course menu only at dinner.
Modern Venetian, natural wine€€€dorsoduro
Estro Vino e Cucina in Venice's Dorsoduro is the Spezzamonte brothers' modern bistro with 700 sustainable wines and a Michelin Guide listing for good cooking.
Signature: Pasta with lagoon fish, Cicchetti modernised, Natural wine flight
Order: The pasta of the day, the cicchetti tasting, a natural-wine flight from the 700-label list.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays. The cicchetti at the bar are excellent and don't need a booking; the dining room does.
Venetian seafood, classic€€san-polo
Trattoria alla Madonna in Venice near the Rialto is the 1954-founded room with a turnover that fills 200 seats twice a day, the canonical Venetian fish lunchroom.
Signature: Sarde in saor, Spaghetti vongole, Fritto misto
Order: Sarde in saor, spaghetti vongole, fegato alla veneziana.
Tip: Walk-in only. Arrive at 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays. Two waves through the dining room every service.
Modern Venetian seafood€€€cannaregio
Osteria Anice Stellato in Venice's Cannaregio is the canal-side modern Venetian seafood room on Fondamenta de la Sensa, with outdoor tables along the rio in summer.
Signature: Bigoli in salsa, Marinated anchovies, Fish ravioli
Order: Bigoli in salsa, marinated anchovies, the daily ravioli.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Book outdoor terrace on the rio in summer through their email or the dishcult listing.