Venetian, classic€€€€lagoon-islands
Locanda Cipriani on Torcello is the 1934-founded Cipriani-family lagoon outpost that Hemingway used for lunch, the canonical garden-restaurant on the silent island.
Signature: Risotto alla torcellana, Carpaccio Cipriani, Filetti di San Pietro
Order: Risotto alla torcellana, carpaccio Cipriani, the daily fish baked in the garden's wood oven.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays and the whole of January. Ferry 12 from Fondamente Nove, 45 minutes. Book outdoor garden tables when you reserve.
Venetian classic, Cipriani€€€€san-marco
Harry's Bar on Calle Vallaresso is the 1931 Cipriani family room that invented the carpaccio and the Bellini, the canonical historic-bar lunchroom in San Marco.
Signature: Carpaccio, Risotto alla primavera, Calf's liver Venetian-style
Order: Bellini at the ground-floor bar, beef carpaccio upstairs, risotto alla primavera.
Tip: Drinking at the bar costs a fraction of upstairs dining; the Bellini is the reason to stop. Book upstairs through OpenTable a fortnight ahead.
Venetian, traditional€€€cannaregio
Vini da Gigio in Venice's Cannaregio is the Lazzari family's canal-side trattoria, a Slow Food-listed family room running the canonical Venetian carte since 1981.
Signature: Bigoli in salsa, Fegato alla veneziana, Branzino al sale
Order: Bigoli in salsa, fegato alla veneziana, branzino in salt crust.
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The wine cellar runs to 1,200 labels. Book a week ahead online or by phone.
Modern Venetian, canal-side€€€san-polo
Osteria Bancogiro in Venice's San Polo is the Grand Canal terrace bistro at the foot of the Rialto, with a downstairs bacaro and an upstairs dining room.
Signature: Tagliata di tonno, Sarde in saor, Crab and ricotta ravioli
Order: Sarde in saor at the bacaro counter, then ravioli with crab and ricotta upstairs on the canal.
Tip: Lower-floor cicchetti are walk-in. Book the upstairs dining room with a Grand Canal table through the website a week ahead.
Venetian seafood€€€san-polo
Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu sign on the door.
Signature: Spaghetti with lagoon clams, Fritto misto, Sarde in saor
Order: Spaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.
Venetian seafood trattoria€€€castello
Trattoria Corte Sconta in Venice's Castello is the courtyard seafood room that locals and chefs in town quietly book first, the canonical hidden-courtyard fish trattoria.
Signature: Antipasto misto di pesce crudo, Spaghetti with clams, Granseola
Order: Antipasto misto, spaghetti vongole, granseola when in season.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead. The pergola courtyard is the seat to ask for in summer. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
