Yank Sing in San Francisco is the Chan family's Cantonese dim sum institution since 1958, with a SoMa flagship and weekend lines that run to 90 minutes.
Signature dishes: Shanghai dumplings, Peking duck buns, Har gow
Must order: Shanghai dumplings: the kitchen's most-ordered cart item for decades.
Tip: The Stevenson Street original is smaller and quieter; book the Spear Street flagship only if you want carts.
Address: 101 Spear Street (Rincon Center), San Francisco, CA 94105
Frances in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Castro neighbourhood room, holding a Michelin star with a 40-seat dining room and a wine list priced by the ounce.
Signature: Bacon beignets, Whole roast fish, House wine on tap
Order: Applewood-smoked bacon beignets with maple chive cream.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out at 10:00; the bar room takes walk-ins from 17:30.
Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.
Signature: Lazy Man's cioppino, Dungeness crab cocktail, Whole grilled petrale sole
Order: Lazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.
Dragon Beaux in San Francisco is a 2015 Outer Richmond room from the Koi Palace family, with modern dim sum at lunch and Cantonese hot pot at dinner.
Signature: Five Guys xiao long bao, Black truffle har gow, BBQ pork puff pastry
Order: The Five Guys xiao long bao (five colours, five flavours) and the BBQ pork puff with apple.
Tip: Dim sum is lunch-only; book ahead for weekend brunch or arrive before 11:30 for a walk-in seat.
Zuni Cafe in San Francisco is the city's most enduring California room: Judy Rodgers' roast chicken for two with bread salad has not left the menu since 1987.
Signature: Roast chicken with bread salad, Caesar salad, Burger
Order: The Judy Rodgers roast chicken for two with bread salad, ordered the moment you sit.
Tip: The chicken takes an hour to fire from order; book a table and ask the server to start it as you arrive.
State Bird Provisions in San Francisco runs a small-plate dim-sum-cart format under Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, James Beard winners in 2015.
Signature: State Bird with provisions, Sourdough pancake with ricotta
Order: The State Bird itself, a brined and fried quail with sweet and sour onions.
Tip: Reservations open exactly 60 days out at 7:30am Pacific; set an alarm or join the standing-room line at 5pm.
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's Cal-Chinese flagship in old Chinatown, holding a Michelin star and a separate cocktail bar worth a visit alone.
Signature: Hot and sour Dungeness, Quail in roses, Whole crispy duck
Order: The whole roast Mongolian duck with house pancakes, ordered ahead.
Tip: Sit in the upstairs bar Moongate Lounge and order from the full menu without committing to the tasting.
