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CaliforniaHayes Valley
Zuni Cafe in San Francisco is the city's most enduring California room: Judy Rodgers' roast chicken for two with bread salad has not left the menu since 1987.
OrderThe Judy Rodgers roast chicken for two with bread salad, ordered the moment you sit.
TipThe chicken takes an hour to fire from order; book a table and ask the server to start it as you arrive.
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Modern AmericanLower Pacific Heights
State Bird Provisions in San Francisco runs a small-plate dim-sum-cart format under Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, James Beard winners in 2015.
OrderThe State Bird itself, a brined and fried quail with sweet and sour onions.
TipReservations open exactly 60 days out at 7:30am Pacific; set an alarm or join the standing-room line at 5pm.
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ChineseChinatown
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's Cal-Chinese flagship in old Chinatown, holding a Michelin star and a separate cocktail bar worth a visit alone.
OrderThe whole roast Mongolian duck with house pancakes, ordered ahead.
TipSit in the upstairs bar Moongate Lounge and order from the full menu without committing to the tasting.
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Bakery CafeThe Mission
Tartine Manufactory in San Francisco is Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt's larger Mission site, with bread, pastry, plates and a wine bar under one roof.
OrderThe morning bun and a country loaf to take home.
TipSkip the queue at the Guerrero Street original; the Manufactory has the same bakes plus a sit-down kitchen.
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CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.
OrderThe Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.
TipBar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.
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MediterraneanThe Mission
Foreign Cinema in San Francisco is the Mission's open-air courtyard room from Gayle Pirie and John Clark, with a film projected on the back wall after dark.
OrderBrunch fried chicken with cornmeal waffle, between a 10:30 oyster start.
TipBrunch on a sunny Saturday is the move; book the courtyard, not the indoor room.