California$$$lower-pac-heights
Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.
Signature: Wood-grilled flatbreads, Rotisserie chicken, Burger
Order: The Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.
Tip: Bar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.
Mediterranean$$$the-mission
Foreign Cinema in San Francisco is the Mission's open-air courtyard room from Gayle Pirie and John Clark, with a film projected on the back wall after dark.
Signature: Pomegranate-glazed lamb, Brunch oysters, Fried chicken
Order: Brunch fried chicken with cornmeal waffle, between a 10:30 oyster start.
Tip: Brunch on a sunny Saturday is the move; book the courtyard, not the indoor room.
California$$$hayes-valley
Rich Table in San Francisco is Sarah and Evan Rich's Hayes Valley California room near the opera house, holding a Michelin star and a strong house pasta menu.
Signature: Sardine chips, Porcini doughnuts, Pasta of the day
Order: Porcini doughnuts with raclette for the table; the dish that put the room on the map.
Tip: The bar seats see the whole pass; book one of the two and order the chef-counter pasta supplement.
Thai$$$soma-yerba-buena
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's Michelin-starred Thai room near Union Square, with regional cooking far from the safe pad thai script.
Signature: Rabbit green curry, Pretty hot wings, Khao soi
Order: The rabbit green curry over jasmine rice; the dish that won the Michelin star.
Tip: The bar pours a sharp Riesling list; ask for the off-menu cold larb when it is available.
American$$$soma-yerba-buena
Marlowe in San Francisco is the Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio bistro south of Market, with the city's most reliable burger after Nopa's.
Signature: Burger, Brussels sprout chips, Roast chicken
Order: The Marlowe burger, on a Pretzel bun with Cabot cheddar.
Tip: Sit at the bar and ask for the burger plus the kale Caesar; that is the full Marlowe order.
Hawaiian American$$$lower-pac-heights
Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco is Ravi Kapur's Hawaiian-leaning room above the Tenderloin, with one of the city's strongest fun-dinner energies.
Signature: Spam fried rice, Tuna poke, Baked Hawaii
Order: Tuna poke with sesame nori chips, followed by spam fried rice.
Tip: The bar room takes walk-ins; the dining room is two months out.