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ChineseChinatown
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's Cal-Chinese flagship in old Chinatown, holding a Michelin star and a separate cocktail bar worth a visit alone.
OrderThe whole roast Mongolian duck with house pancakes, ordered ahead.
TipSit in the upstairs bar Moongate Lounge and order from the full menu without committing to the tasting.
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Bakery CafeThe Mission
Tartine Manufactory in San Francisco is Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt's larger Mission site, with bread, pastry, plates and a wine bar under one roof.
OrderThe morning bun and a country loaf to take home.
TipSkip the queue at the Guerrero Street original; the Manufactory has the same bakes plus a sit-down kitchen.
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CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.
OrderThe Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.
TipBar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.
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MediterraneanThe Mission
Foreign Cinema in San Francisco is the Mission's open-air courtyard room from Gayle Pirie and John Clark, with a film projected on the back wall after dark.
OrderBrunch fried chicken with cornmeal waffle, between a 10:30 oyster start.
TipBrunch on a sunny Saturday is the move; book the courtyard, not the indoor room.
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CaliforniaHayes Valley
Rich Table in San Francisco is Sarah and Evan Rich's Hayes Valley California room near the opera house, holding a Michelin star and a strong house pasta menu.
OrderPorcini doughnuts with raclette for the table; the dish that put the room on the map.
TipThe bar seats see the whole pass; book one of the two and order the chef-counter pasta supplement.
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ThaiSoma Yerba Buena
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's Michelin-starred Thai room near Union Square, with regional cooking far from the safe pad thai script.
OrderThe rabbit green curry over jasmine rice; the dish that won the Michelin star.
TipThe bar pours a sharp Riesling list; ask for the off-menu cold larb when it is available.