California$$$hayes-valley
Rich Table in San Francisco is Sarah and Evan Rich's Hayes Valley California room near the opera house, holding a Michelin star and a strong house pasta menu.
Signature: Sardine chips, Porcini doughnuts, Pasta of the day
Order: Porcini doughnuts with raclette for the table; the dish that put the room on the map.
Tip: The bar seats see the whole pass; book one of the two and order the chef-counter pasta supplement.
Thai$$$soma-yerba-buena
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's Michelin-starred Thai room near Union Square, with regional cooking far from the safe pad thai script.
Signature: Rabbit green curry, Pretty hot wings, Khao soi
Order: The rabbit green curry over jasmine rice; the dish that won the Michelin star.
Tip: The bar pours a sharp Riesling list; ask for the off-menu cold larb when it is available.
American$$$soma-yerba-buena
Marlowe in San Francisco is the Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio bistro south of Market, with the city's most reliable burger after Nopa's.
Signature: Burger, Brussels sprout chips, Roast chicken
Order: The Marlowe burger, on a Pretzel bun with Cabot cheddar.
Tip: Sit at the bar and ask for the burger plus the kale Caesar; that is the full Marlowe order.
Hawaiian American$$$lower-pac-heights
Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco is Ravi Kapur's Hawaiian-leaning room above the Tenderloin, with one of the city's strongest fun-dinner energies.
Signature: Spam fried rice, Tuna poke, Baked Hawaii
Order: Tuna poke with sesame nori chips, followed by spam fried rice.
Tip: The bar room takes walk-ins; the dining room is two months out.
Burmese$$richmond
Burma Superstar in San Francisco is the Clement Street Burmese room that taught the city to eat lahpet thoke; the tea leaf salad is the order.
Signature: Tea leaf salad, Rainbow salad, Samusa soup
Order: The tea leaf salad, tossed table-side with crunchy lentils and fried garlic.
Tip: No reservations; put your name in then walk down Clement to B Star for tea while you wait.
Seafood$$$castro-noe-valley
Anchor Oyster Bar in San Francisco is a 22-seat Castro counter that has served Dungeness, cioppino and clam chowder the same way since 1977.
Signature: Cioppino, Clam chowder, Cracked Dungeness
Order: The cioppino in season, with a side of garlic bread.
Tip: No bookings; arrive at 16:30 for the early seating or after 21:00 when the line thins.