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AmericanEmbarcadero
Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.
OrderSand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.
TipNo reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.
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Italian SeafoodNorth Beach
Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.
OrderThe cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.
TipWear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.
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Modern AmericanThe Mission
True Laurel in San Francisco is Lazy Bear's sister cocktail-and-snack bar in the Mission, with David Barzelay's kitchen plates and a strong drinks list.
OrderCrispy brassicas and the cocktail tasting at the bar.
TipThe bar takes walk-ins; book the dining room only if you want the bigger plates.
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ItalianLower Pac Heights
Che Fico in San Francisco is David Nayfeld's Roman-leaning Italian on Divisadero, with Roman-Jewish artichokes, real Vesuvian pizza and a long Italian wine.
OrderRoman-Jewish artichokes in spring, the pizza alla diavola otherwise.
TipThe downstairs Che Fico Alimentari is the lunch counter with the same pasta at half the price.
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CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.
OrderWhatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.
TipTuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.
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New AmericanThe Mission
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a dinner party for 40 guests across two communal tables.
OrderThe bread course with the cultured butter; ten years on it is still the marker.
TipTickets release on the 1st of each month for 60 days out; sign up to the email waitlist for advance notice.