SeafoodChef Dominique Crenn$$$$$425Book 6 to 8 weeks ahead
Atelier Crenn in San Francisco is Dominique Crenn's three-Michelin-star Cow Hollow flagship, a poetry-of-cuisine vegetable-and-seafood tasting in 30 seats.
Tip: Sit at the chef's counter in the back for a longer hand-off and more conversation with the line.
CalifornianChef Richard Lee$$$$$398Book 4 to 6 weeks ahead
Saison in San Francisco is a three-Michelin-star hearth-driven tasting in SoMa, with live-fire seafood and California game over an oak fire that runs.
Tip: Counter seats face the fire; the four-top tables at the back catch less of the kitchen action.
CalifornianChef Michael Tusk$$$$$365Book 4 to 6 weeks ahead
Quince in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's three-Michelin-star Jackson Square room, an Italian-inflected California tasting from the Fresh Run Farm produce.
Tip: The neighbouring Cotogna sister room runs the same kitchen at a quarter the price, with walk-in seating.
Benu 3 ★ ★ 4.8
KoreanChef Corey Lee$$$$$435Book 6 to 8 weeks ahead
Benu in San Francisco is Corey Lee's three-Michelin-star modern Korean American tasting in SoMa, with a 14-seat counter and a 30-course pace through three.
Tip: The bar at sister Monsieur Benjamin takes walk-ins and runs the same culture on a bistro budget.
Modern MexicanChef Val M. Cantu$$$$$345Book 4 to 6 weeks ahead
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting in SoMa, with masa from heritage corns nixtamalised in-house.
Tip: The wine pairing is a strong commit; the agave pairing is the move if you want sotol and mezcal.
CalifornianChef David Barzelay$$$$$315Book 4 to 6 weeks ahead
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a communal dinner party for 40 guests across two long tables.
Tip: Bring a notebook; the kitchen hands out a course list and pencils, and the menu rotates fast.
Pacific NorthwestChef Christopher Bleidorn$$$$$325Book 4 to 6 weeks ahead
Birdsong in San Francisco is Christopher Bleidorn's two-Michelin-star Pacific Northwest tasting in SoMa, with a hearth-cooked menu rooted in foraging.
Tip: The kitchen-counter four-top is the best seat; ask for it when booking opens at 09:00 Pacific.
ThaiChef Pim Techamuanvivit$$$$$95 setBook 2 weeks ahead
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's one-Michelin-star regional Thai room near Union Square, with a kitchen set menu rotating the rabbit green.
Tip: The $95 set menu is better value than ordering a la carte; ask whether the cold larb is running.
CalifornianChef Melissa Perello$$$$$135 setBook 2 to 3 weeks ahead
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's one-Michelin-star Pacific Heights room with a day-boat fish set menu and a long market-driven a la carte.
Tip: The heirloom tomato course in August is the year's set piece; book at the end of July to land an August seat.
ChineseChef Brandon Jew$$$$$185 chef's selectionBook 3 weeks ahead
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's one-Michelin-star Cal-Chinese flagship in Chinatown, with whole-duck dinners and an upstairs cocktail room.
Tip: Book the whole roast duck 48 hours ahead by phone; it does not appear on the website ordering form.
CalifornianChef Evan and Sarah Rich$$$$$165 chef's tastingBook 3 weeks ahead
Rich Table in San Francisco is Evan and Sarah Rich's one-Michelin-star Hayes Valley room near the opera house, with the city's most-cited house pasta program.
Tip: The chef-counter tasting is the best seat in the room and adds a hand-rolled pasta supplement.
CalifornianChef Mark Sullivan$$$$$155 prix fixeBook 2 weeks ahead
Spruce in San Francisco is Mark Sullivan's one-Michelin-star Presidio Heights bistro with a dry-aged steak programme and a cellar that runs.
Tip: The bar room takes walk-ins; the side-cart cheese trolley is the closing move regardless of where you sit.