Chicago's wine bars favor low-key neighborhood rooms over formal cellars, often pairing a smart list with serious food. The Loyalist on Ada Street, the downstairs counterpart to Smyth, and Rootstock on California Avenue are anchors of the scene, while Webster's Wine Bar holds down Logan Square. Maria's Packaged Goods in Bridgeport blends a corner liquor store with a community bar in a way that is distinctly Chicago.
The Loyalist in Chicago is the wood-bar room downstairs from Smyth on Ada Street, an unfussy wine bar from John and Karen Shields with the cult dirty burger.
TipWalk up to the bar at 16:55. The dirty burger is on the bar menu from open; it leaves the kitchen rare and griddle-pressed.
Rootstock in Chicago is Humboldt Park's neighbourhood natural-wine bar on California Avenue since 2011, with a small-producer list and a strong charcuterie.
TipThe kitchen runs late; the burger and pork-rillette plate are the late-night moves once the cheese case thins.
Maria's Packaged Goods in Chicago is the Bridgeport corner store-and-bar on 31st Street: hybrid bottle shop, neighbourhood pub and Kimski Korean-Polish.
TipKimski's kimchi pierogi and the Marz brewery beers on the back wall are the room's defining pairing.
Diversey Wine in Logan Square is the natural-wine shop and bar next door to Cellar Door Provisions on Diversey Avenue, with rotating skin-contact pours.
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