Italian food in Chicago splits between the white-tablecloth room and the Italian beef stand, and the city is fiercely loyal to both. Monteverde in the West Loop and Gene & Georgetti in River North hold up the restaurant tradition, while Mr. Beef on Orleans and Al's Beef on Taylor Street in Little Italy keep the beef-sandwich heritage alive. Johnnie's Beef in Elmwood Park is a suburban pilgrimage for the same dish.
Monteverde in Chicago is Sarah Grueneberg's Italian dining room on Madison Street in the West Loop, a pasta-led menu with all the dough rolled in the open.
OrderThe cacio whey pepe; the kitchen ferments its own pecorino whey for the sauce.
TipSit at the pasta-counter seats if they're on offer. The kitchen rolls dough at eye level.
Gene & Georgetti in Chicago is the 1941 Italian-American steakhouse under the elevated tracks at Franklin and Illinois, opened by Michelotti and Federighi.
OrderThe Garbage Salad; the bone-in ribeye; a Negroni at the bar before sitting down.
TipAsk for one of the back-room booths under the photo wall. The lighting is the same warm gold it has been for eighty years.
Daisies in Chicago is Joe Frillman's Logan Square pasta-and-vegetable dining room on Milwaukee Avenue, with grain and produce sourced directly from Illinois.
OrderCavatelli with whatever ragu is current; the focaccia first, while you wait.
TipBrunch is the underrated meal here. The same pasta program with eggs and patio seating in summer.
Mr. Beef on Orleans in Chicago is the no-frills Italian-beef counter that inspired The Bear, opened by Joe Zucchero in 1979, with a sandwich line out past.
OrderItalian beef, dipped, hot peppers. The combo if you want sausage on top.
TipCash only and counter only. Closes by 16:30 on weekdays, earlier on weekends.
Johnnie's Beef in Elmwood Park is the suburban-edge Italian-beef counter on North Avenue since 1961, known for the combo (beef and sausage) and the Italian.
OrderCombo, dipped, hot peppers. Italian lemonade in the lemon-and-ice flavour, large.
TipCash only. Two lines: one for sandwiches, one for Italian lemonade. They are not the same staff.
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