Spanish tapas€centro
Bar El Comercio on Calle Lineros in Seville is the Rivera-family breakfast bar since 1904, the city's canonical churreria with thick hot chocolate.
Signature: Churros con chocolate, Vermut from the barrel, Tostada con tomate
Order: A racion of churros con chocolate (five churros, 2.50 euros) and a vermut for second breakfast.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 07:30-21:00, closed Sunday. The standing counter is fastest in the morning rush; the upstairs room is a quieter sit-down.
Sevillian Tapas With Quail€€triana
Bar Casa Ruperto on Avenida Santa Cecilia in Seville's Triana is the city's canonical fried-quail counter since 1970, with the marinated codornices fried.
Signature: Codorniz frita, Espinacas con garbanzos, Carrillada iberica
Order: Two pairs of codorniz frita and a half-racion of espinacas con garbanzos.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 11:30-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Monday. The standing bar is the local way; the back room takes small groups.
Sevillian Taberna€€centro
Taberna Coloniales on Plaza Cristo de Burgos in Seville is the local-favourite tapas room near Casa de Pilatos, with the solomillo al whisky and honey-glazed.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Berenjenas con miel, Pollo al curry
Order: The solomillo al whisky (the city's quintessential pork-in-whisky-sauce tapa) and berenjenas con miel.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Walk-in only; expect a 15 to 30 minute queue at peak hours.
Modern Andalusian€€€santa-cruz
La Azotea on Calle Mateos Gago in Seville's Santa Cruz is the modern-Andalusian counter that started in San Lorenzo in 2008 and now runs three city locations.
Signature: Atun rojo de almadraba, Salmorejo trufado, Crujiente de morcilla
Order: The atun rojo de almadraba (red tuna from the Cadiz trap) and the crujiente de morcilla with apple compote.
Tip: Open daily 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. The Santa Cruz location is the loudest; the Conde de Barajas branch is quieter for tasting menus.
Modern Andalusian€€€centro
Tradevo Centro on Calle Cuesta del Rosario in Seville is chef Gonzalo Jurado's modern Andalusian counter since 2016, listed in the Michelin Guide.
Signature: Tartar de atun rojo, Carrillera al PX, Croqueta de chipiron
Order: The tartar de atun rojo and the carrillera de iberico en salsa de Pedro Ximenez.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-24:00. The Plaza de la Pescaderia terrace is the best seat in shoulder season; reserve at thefork.es.
Spanish€€€triana
Vega 10 on Calle Rosario Vega in Seville's Triana, opened in 2014, marries Andalusian tradition with Asian and South American influences, with bull's tail.
Signature: Canelones de rabo de toro, Tartar de atun, Tapa de cochinillo
Order: The canelones de rabo de toro and the tuna tartare from the open kitchen.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:45, closed Sunday. The terrace between Triana and Los Remedios fills from 21:30; book by phone a week ahead.
