Modern Andalusian€€€santa-cruz
La Azotea on Calle Mateos Gago in Seville's Santa Cruz is the modern-Andalusian counter that started in San Lorenzo in 2008 and now runs three city locations.
Signature: Atun rojo de almadraba, Salmorejo trufado, Crujiente de morcilla
Order: The atun rojo de almadraba (red tuna from the Cadiz trap) and the crujiente de morcilla with apple compote.
Tip: Open daily 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. The Santa Cruz location is the loudest; the Conde de Barajas branch is quieter for tasting menus.
Modern Andalusian€€€centro
Tradevo Centro on Calle Cuesta del Rosario in Seville is chef Gonzalo Jurado's modern Andalusian counter since 2016, listed in the Michelin Guide.
Signature: Tartar de atun rojo, Carrillera al PX, Croqueta de chipiron
Order: The tartar de atun rojo and the carrillera de iberico en salsa de Pedro Ximenez.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-24:00. The Plaza de la Pescaderia terrace is the best seat in shoulder season; reserve at thefork.es.
Spanish€€€triana
Vega 10 on Calle Rosario Vega in Seville's Triana, opened in 2014, marries Andalusian tradition with Asian and South American influences, with bull's tail.
Signature: Canelones de rabo de toro, Tartar de atun, Tapa de cochinillo
Order: The canelones de rabo de toro and the tuna tartare from the open kitchen.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:45, closed Sunday. The terrace between Triana and Los Remedios fills from 21:30; book by phone a week ahead.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos in Seville's Triana is the tile-walled tapas counter since 1962, with the punta de solomillo on toast and grilled.
Signature: Punta de solomillo, Champinones al ajillo, Lomo a la pimienta
Order: The punta de solomillo on toast and the champinones al ajillo.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Standing-room only and tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:30.
Modern Andalusian€€€alameda
Az-Zait on Plaza San Lorenzo in Seville is a Michelin Bib Gourmand modern Andalusian room (Bib since 2004), with the wood-grilled octopus and confit cod.
Signature: Pulpo a la brasa, Bacalao confitado, Tartar de presa iberica
Order: The pulpo a la brasa over potato puree and the bacalao confitado en aceite de oliva virgen.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat 13:30-16:00 and 20:30-23:30, closed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a window seat overlooking Plaza San Lorenzo a week ahead.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: The tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa, with a copa of fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.