The whitewashed former Jewish quarter east of the Cathedral, cobbled and tile-lined, anchoring the tourist tapeo crawl and the venerated rooms around Calle Mateos Gago.
Vineria San Telmo on Paseo de Catalina de Ribera in Seville is the Argentine-owned tapas room beside the Alcazar gardens, the pioneer of the modern-tapas.
Signature: Squid-ink spaghetti, Mollejas, Pluma iberica
Order: The squid-ink spaghetti with seafood and the wood-grilled pluma iberica from the daily blackboard.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:30 and 20:00-24:00. Book the back garden room a week ahead in spring; bar plates run faster on weeknights.
Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville's Santa Cruz has hung jamones from the ceiling since 1870, the venerated old-school tabernero that anchors.
Signature: Jamon iberico de bellota, Solomillo al whisky, Salmorejo
Order: A racion of jamon iberico de bellota sliced from the leg overhead and a copa of fino En Rama.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-24:00. Order from the standing bar at front for the fastest plates; the wooden tables at back fill from 13:30.
Casa Robles on Calle Alvarez Quintero in Seville is the Robles family's flagship since 1954, with wood-panelled dining rooms beside the Cathedral.
Signature: Pork fillet in oloroso sauce, Roasted lamb shank, Salmorejo cordobes
Order: The pork fillet in oak-aged oloroso sauce, then the slow-roasted lamb shank with potatoes a lo pobre.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-17:00 and 20:00-01:00. The terrace fills fast on Cathedral-tour days; book the upstairs dining room for quieter Sunday lunch.
Casa Modesto on Calle Cano y Cueto in Seville is the Modesto family's fried-fish flagship since 1971, with the city's canonical pescaito frito.
Signature: Pescaito frito, Cazon en adobo, Tortillitas de camarones
Order: The pescaito frito mixed plate and the tortillitas de camarones, with a glass of manzanilla.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-17:00 and 20:00-00:30. The downstairs bar is the working-day spot; the upstairs dining room takes reservations.
Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas by locals, sits at the threshold of Santa Cruz in Seville and serves the city's canonical montadito de pringa.
Signature: Montadito de pringa, Tortillitas de bacalao, Solomillo al whisky
Order: The montadito de pringa casera and the tortillitas de bacalao, with a cana of local Cruzcampo.
Tip: Open daily 08:00-24:00. Standing-only at the counter; the staff chalk your bill on the bar in front of you, paid at the end.
Casa Placido on Calle Meson del Moro in Seville's Santa Cruz is the sister bar of Las Teresas, reopened by Luis Sanchez Garcia in 1988 in an 18th-century.
Signature: Jamon iberico, Carne mechada, Anchoas y tomate
Order: The carne mechada (slow-braised pork) and a racion of jamon iberico, with a tinto.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-24:00. Standing bar at front with hams hanging overhead; small wooden tables behind for sit-down service.
La Azotea on Calle Mateos Gago in Seville's Santa Cruz is the modern-Andalusian counter that started in San Lorenzo in 2008 and now runs three city locations.
Signature: Atun rojo de almadraba, Salmorejo trufado, Crujiente de morcilla
Order: The atun rojo de almadraba (red tuna from the Cadiz trap) and the crujiente de morcilla with apple compote.
Tip: Open daily 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. The Santa Cruz location is the loudest; the Conde de Barajas branch is quieter for tasting menus.
Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville's Santa Cruz hung jamones from the ceiling in 1870 and is an essential Santa Cruz taberna for working-day tapas.
Signature: Jamon iberico de bellota, Solomillo al whisky, Salmorejo
Order: A racion of jamon iberico de bellota sliced overhead and a copa of fino En Rama.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-24:00. The standing bar is the working-day pick; the wooden tables behind take walk-in groups.
Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas by locals, serves the city's canonical montadito de pringa across the long marble counter at the threshold.
Signature: Montadito de pringa, Tortillitas de bacalao, Solomillo al whisky
Order: The montadito de pringa casera and tortillitas de bacalao with a cana of Cruzcampo.
Tip: Open daily 08:00-24:00. Standing-only at the counter; staff chalk your bill on the bar in front of you, paid at the end.
Casa Placido on Calle Meson del Moro in Seville's Santa Cruz is the Sanchez family's sister bar of Las Teresas since 1988, in an 18th-century townhouse.
Signature: Jamon iberico, Carne mechada, Anchoas y tomate
Order: Carne mechada (slow-braised pork) and a racion of jamon iberico with tinto.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-24:00. Standing bar at front with hams hanging overhead; small wooden tables behind for sit-down service.
La Azotea on Calle Mateos Gago in Seville's Santa Cruz is the modern-tapas counter that started in San Lorenzo in 2008 and now runs three city locations.
Signature: Atun rojo de almadraba, Salmorejo trufado, Crujiente de morcilla
Order: Atun rojo de almadraba (red tuna from the Cadiz trap) and crujiente de morcilla with apple compote.
Tip: Open daily 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. Santa Cruz is the loudest location; book Conde de Barajas for a quieter sit-down.
Terraza Hotel Dona Maria on Calle Don Remondo in Seville is the small Santa Cruz rooftop pool bar opposite the Cathedral, with a closer Giralda view than EME.
Tip: Hotel guests have priority for the pool; non-guests pay 15 to 20 euros entry. Cocktails are simpler than EME.