Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos in Seville's Triana is the tile-walled tapas counter since 1962, with the punta de solomillo on toast and grilled.
Signature: Punta de solomillo, Champinones al ajillo, Lomo a la pimienta
Order: The punta de solomillo on toast and the champinones al ajillo.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Standing-room only and tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:30.
Modern Andalusian€€€alameda
Az-Zait on Plaza San Lorenzo in Seville is a Michelin Bib Gourmand modern Andalusian room (Bib since 2004), with the wood-grilled octopus and confit cod.
Signature: Pulpo a la brasa, Bacalao confitado, Tartar de presa iberica
Order: The pulpo a la brasa over potato puree and the bacalao confitado en aceite de oliva virgen.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat 13:30-16:00 and 20:30-23:30, closed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a window seat overlooking Plaza San Lorenzo a week ahead.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: The tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa, with a copa of fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Sevillian Taberna€€centro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670 and run by the De Rueda family since 1858, with the cuenta still.
Signature: Espinacas con garbanzos, Pavias de bacalao, Jamon iberico
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with a glass of fino.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is a reservation room with full plates.
Andalusian Seafood€€€€centro
Canabota on Calle Orfila in Seville earned its Michelin star in the 2022 guide and runs an open-grill counter where the day's whole fish from Cadiz.
Signature: Grilled fish of the day, Sea urchin, Lengua de mar
Order: The tasting menu built around the day's catch from the Cadiz lonja.
Tip: Two sittings nightly Tue-Sat, 14:00 and 21:00. Book three weeks ahead by phone or web. La Barra next door is the walk-in option without reservation.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€alameda
Espacio Eslava on Calle Eslava in Seville's San Lorenzo is the modern-tapas room since 1988, with the egg-on-mushroom-cake and the honey-glazed costilla.
Signature: Huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus, Costilla con miel, Cigarro de pringa
Order: The huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus and the slow-cooked costilla con miel de cana sirope.
Tip: Walk-in only; queue at 12:30 for lunch or 20:00 for dinner, closed Sunday evening and Monday. Tables come up at the back; bar plates come faster.