Sevillian Taberna€€centro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670, with the cuenta still chalked on the wooden bar top.
Signature: Espinacas con garbanzos, Pavias de bacalao, Jamon iberico
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with fino.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is the reservation room.
Spanish tapas€€el-arenal
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850 with vermut pulled from giant wood casks and a cured-meat counter.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Vermut from the barrel, Carrillada
Order: Solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Walk-ins usually OK.
Spanish tapas€santa-cruz
Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas by locals, serves the city's canonical montadito de pringa across the long marble counter at the threshold.
Signature: Montadito de pringa, Tortillitas de bacalao, Solomillo al whisky
Order: The montadito de pringa casera and tortillitas de bacalao with a cana of Cruzcampo.
Tip: Open daily 08:00-24:00. Standing-only at the counter; staff chalk your bill on the bar in front of you, paid at the end.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: Tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa with fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Spanish tapas€centro
Cerveceria El Tremendo on Calle San Felipe in Seville is a tiny old-fashioned beer counter near the centro, with bocadillos, montaditos and seasonal.
Signature: Bocadillos, Montaditos, Caracoles
Order: A montadito de pringa and a half-pint of beer; the seasonal caracoles in summer.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. Standing-only and tiny; arrive before 21:00 to find a slot at the bar.
Sevillian Taberna€€centro
Taberna Coloniales on Plaza Cristo de Burgos in Seville is the local-favourite tapas room with solomillo al whisky and honey-glazed aubergines that draw.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Berenjenas con miel, Pollo al curry
Order: Solomillo al whisky and berenjenas con miel de cana.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Walk-in only; 15 to 30 minute queue at peak hours.