Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Seville actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Seville actually eats.
Casa Cuesta on Calle Castilla in Seville's Triana has cooked menudo (offal stew) since 1880, a tile-and-bullfighting-poster taberna at the foot of the Triana.
Signature: Menudo, Pavias de bacalao, Carrillada
Order: The menudo (the city's canonical tripe-and-chickpea stew) and pavias de bacalao with manzanilla.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:30 and 19:30-24:00. Lunch on Sunday from 14:00 is the local main event; book the back room a week ahead.
Manolo Leon on Calle Guadalquivir in Seville is the Manolo Leon family's flagship since 1995, with an Andalusian carte built on Iberico pork.
Signature: Solomillo iberico, Pescaito frito, Salmorejo
Order: The solomillo iberico over potato puree and the pescaito frito mixed plate.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. The Guadalquivir location is the larger room; reserve the patio for Sunday lunch.
El Pintor Amalio on Calle Trajano in Seville is a neighbourhood casual taberna across from the Alameda, with the fried-fish plate and PX-glazed pork cheek.
Signature: Pescaito frito, Carrillada al PX, Croquetas de jamon
Order: The pescaito frito mixed plate and the carrillada al Pedro Ximenez over puree.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30, closed Sunday. The standing bar is faster; the back room takes small reservations.
Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville's Santa Cruz hung jamones from the ceiling in 1870 and is an essential Santa Cruz taberna for working-day tapas.
Signature: Jamon iberico de bellota, Solomillo al whisky, Salmorejo
Order: A racion of jamon iberico de bellota sliced overhead and a copa of fino En Rama.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-24:00. The standing bar is the working-day pick; the wooden tables behind take walk-in groups.
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670, with the cuenta still chalked on the wooden bar top.
Signature: Espinacas con garbanzos, Pavias de bacalao, Jamon iberico
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with fino.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is the reservation room.
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850 with vermut pulled from giant wood casks and a cured-meat counter.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Vermut from the barrel, Carrillada
Order: Solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Walk-ins usually OK.
Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas by locals, serves the city's canonical montadito de pringa across the long marble counter at the threshold.
Signature: Montadito de pringa, Tortillitas de bacalao, Solomillo al whisky
Order: The montadito de pringa casera and tortillitas de bacalao with a cana of Cruzcampo.
Tip: Open daily 08:00-24:00. Standing-only at the counter; staff chalk your bill on the bar in front of you, paid at the end.
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: Tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa with fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Cerveceria El Tremendo on Calle San Felipe in Seville is a tiny old-fashioned beer counter near the centro, with bocadillos, montaditos and seasonal.
Signature: Bocadillos, Montaditos, Caracoles
Order: A montadito de pringa and a half-pint of beer; the seasonal caracoles in summer.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. Standing-only and tiny; arrive before 21:00 to find a slot at the bar.
Taberna Coloniales on Plaza Cristo de Burgos in Seville is the local-favourite tapas room with solomillo al whisky and honey-glazed aubergines that draw.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Berenjenas con miel, Pollo al curry
Order: Solomillo al whisky and berenjenas con miel de cana.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Walk-in only; 15 to 30 minute queue at peak hours.
Bar Alfalfa on Calle Candilejo in Seville's Alfalfa quarter is a tiny standing-room tapas counter with Italian leanings (bruschetta, carpaccios).
Signature: Bruschetta with jamon, Sun-dried tomato carpaccio, Salmorejo
Order: Bruschetta with jamon and a glass of house red.
Tip: Open daily 09:00-24:00. Standing-room only at the bar; arrive before 13:30 for lunch or after 22:00 for dinner.
Casa Placido on Calle Meson del Moro in Seville's Santa Cruz is the Sanchez family's sister bar of Las Teresas since 1988, in an 18th-century townhouse.
Signature: Jamon iberico, Carne mechada, Anchoas y tomate
Order: Carne mechada (slow-braised pork) and a racion of jamon iberico with tinto.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-24:00. Standing bar at front with hams hanging overhead; small wooden tables behind for sit-down service.
La Azotea on Calle Mateos Gago in Seville's Santa Cruz is the modern-tapas counter that started in San Lorenzo in 2008 and now runs three city locations.
Signature: Atun rojo de almadraba, Salmorejo trufado, Crujiente de morcilla
Order: Atun rojo de almadraba (red tuna from the Cadiz trap) and crujiente de morcilla with apple compote.
Tip: Open daily 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. Santa Cruz is the loudest location; book Conde de Barajas for a quieter sit-down.
La Brunilda on Calle Galera in Seville's El Arenal is the modern-tapas room with risottos, rices and Mediterranean small plates that locals queue.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Goat-cheese salad, Squid-ink rice
Order: Mushroom risotto and goat-cheese-and-fig salad.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30. Reservations by phone only; queue from 19:30 for a bar seat without booking.
Bodeguita Casablanca on Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado in Seville is run by the Casablanca cousins Antonio and Tomas near Puerta de Jerez, lauded.
Signature: Huevos a la flamenca, Carrillada iberica, Tartar de atun
Order: Huevos a la flamenca and carrillada iberica with oloroso sauce.
Tip: Open Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00 and 20:15-00:30, Sat 12:30-17:30, closed Sunday. The standing bar is faster.
Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos in Seville's Triana is the tile-walled tapas counter since 1962, serving the punta de solomillo on toast.
Signature: Punta de solomillo, Champinones al ajillo, Lomo a la pimienta
Order: Punta de solomillo on toast and champinones al ajillo.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Standing-room only and tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:30.
Bar Casa Ruperto on Avenida Santa Cecilia in Seville's Triana is the city's canonical fried-quail counter since 1970, with marinated codornices fried.
Signature: Codorniz frita, Espinacas con garbanzos, Carrillada iberica
Order: Two pairs of codorniz frita and a half-racion of espinacas con garbanzos.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 11:30-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Monday. The standing bar is the local way.